Presenting Pilsners

By K. Florian Klemp Published July 2003, Volume 24, Number 3
Pilsner Urquell
Ceské Budejovice Budvar
Spaten Premium Pils
Bitburger Pils

Of the many events that have blazed the path of beer history, arguably none holds more sway than the creation of pilsner. The introduction, in 1842, of the clear golden lager in Plzen, Bohemia, was so revolutionary that it left breweries scrambling for years to produce a similar product to compete. All golden lagers are offspring of the original pilsner. Hoppy, aromatic, and pleasantly bitter, with a clean and soft malt backbone, pilsners are satisfying, thirst quenching and appetizing.

Pilsner is no doubt the pan-global beer style, but its pedigree lies squarely in Bohemia.

Pilsner Pedigree

Pilsner is no doubt the pan-global beer style, but its pedigree lies squarely in Bohemia.

Plzen was established in western Bohemia at a strategic site, proximal to several economically important rivers and trading arteries. Founder King Wenceslas II, in 1295, initially granted the right to brew beer to Plzen’s citizens, who quickly coalesced to form a cooperative brewing venture.

In 1307, Plzen formed its first brewery and not long afterward, realized its first strides toward commercial brewing. With the aid of subsequently formed guilds, the brewing industry strengthened, and the economic and artistic importance of brewing became ensconced in Bohemian culture. King Wenceslas II was so instrumental in maintaining and furthering the art of brewing that he was honored as the patron saint of brewing by the Bohemian guild.

Over the next several centuries, beer gained importance in European culture. Beer was economically significant as a source of revenue, socially vital as an escape, and valuable as food and as a way to preserve water. And while it could be assumed that beer quality was somewhat improved from earlier products, it would be some time before the evolution from dark, turbid brews to the later tidy, light-colored beers would be complete.

Science And Serendipity

After a tumultuous period of pillage and plague in the 17th century temporarily stymied brewing progress in Europe, things settled down and set the stage for the birth of modern brewing. In the middle of the 18th century, some tools and techniques that we might consider elementary today were implemented in brewing protocols, and the Czechs were on the point.

They were purportedly the first to utilize the thermometer to maximize mash conditions. They made the hydrometer a standard brewing tool. The Czechs also took advantage of the new malting technology to create mellow, light-colored malt. Although these were welcome additions to brewing, Czech beer was still top fermented and less refined than the German brews of the day. The final piece would soon be added to the puzzle.

The brewery known today as Pilsner Urquell (Plzensky Prozdroj) was built specifically to emulate the famous lager bier of Germany. A Bavarian brewer, Josef Groll, was hired to oversee the operation. Using a bottom-fermenting yeast smuggled to Plzen from Bavaria, Groll introduced the brewery’s first pilsner in 1842. The brewing world was stunned by the new beer, even more so when it was served in the avant-garde drinking vessels of the day—glass. Eventually, brewers all over Europe produced a competitive beer—export in Dortmund, helles in Munich, and pils all over Germany. Today, breweries in virtually every corner of the world make a version based at least loosely on the original pilsner.

K. Florian Klemp is a research analyst at Duke University in Durham, NC, and an award-winning homebrewer.
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Tasting Notes

  • Pilsner Urquell

    Urquell means “original source,” and, in essence, the moniker was added to protect the originator of the style. The worldwide imitators may be good in their own right, but Urquell is distinctive. The hop aroma is soft, flowery and round. The mouthfeel is full, the flavor is full of hops and malt with a slight sweetness. At about 40 international bittering units (IBU), Urquell is bitter, but the soft water rinses the palate within seconds.

    ABV: 4.4%
  • Ceské Budejovice Budvar

    Budweiser Budvar in German, imported to the United States as Czechvar, and brewed in Bohemia, Budvar is a very aromatic, less bitter example of pilsner. Malty, with a sweetish background, Budvar is as aromatic as any pilsner. The gentle bitterness, about 25 IBU, takes an uncharacteristic back seat in this pilsner. It is lagered for 90 days, producing a smooth, enticing brew.

    ABV: 5.0%
  • Spaten Premium Pils

    Few names are more respected in brewing than the Munich brewery, Spaten. Spaten Pils exemplifies German pilsner beer. It has a little more maltiness than most, and the hop character is firm without being forceful. A rich Bavarian hop aroma makes it a well-rounded beer that can be enjoyed and savored any time. A classic German pils.

    ABV: 5.0%
  • Bitburger Pils

    Brewed in Bitburg, Germany, in the western Rhineland, Bitburger Pils is light gold in color, fairly dry, and well hopped. The malt character is light, but not at all overwhelmed by the crisp hop bitterness. The Bitburger Brewery was founded in 1817 and one of the first to produce a pils, in 1884. Made with German malt and a blend of German hops, Bitburger is the crisp, quenching beer that you might find perfect for summertime.

    ABV: 4.5%