Presenting Pilsners

By K. Florian Klemp Published July 2003, Volume 24, Number 3
Pilsner Urquell
Ceské Budejovice Budvar
Spaten Premium Pils
Bitburger Pils

Profiling Pilsner

True pilsners are soft, fragrant and complex, and express in their overall character a distinct contribution from each of the four basic beer ingredients: malt, hops, yeast and water. Water is mentioned in beer character only in special cases. This is one of them. The water of Bohemia is extremely soft, and this imparts a distinctly mellow profile all the way around, especially in the manifestation of the hops.

The prized malt grown in Moravia is considered by many to be the finest in the world. It may, in fact, be the forerunner of all pale continental European malt grown today. Some is malted using traditional floor-malting methods. It is relatively sweet and quite smooth, and is often under-modified by the maltster. This necessitates a complex and lengthy decoction mashing procedure that adds some extra color, richer flavor, and better mouthfeel than in most pale beers. The wort produces a finished beer in the range of 4.5 to 5.0 percent alcohol by volume (ABV).

No beer style showcases a specific type of hop more than a Bohemian pilsner. The finest hops are grown in the Zatec region in northwest Bohemia. They are known as Zatec red or Bohemian red, but might be most familiar by their German designation, Saaz. Their distinctive spicy, floral aroma and gentle bittering qualities make them an ideal hop for all kettle additions. The soft water erases the lingering bitterness that is common in most well-hopped beers. The aroma of a fresh pilsner is quite something to experience, like burying one’s head in a bag of fresh hops.

The yeast used in Bohemian pilsners, although a descendent of German bottom fermenters, ferments a little less crisp than its German counterparts. There is plenty of dextrinous body, a slight sweetness, and perhaps even a very light buttery (diacetyl) footprint in a Bohemian pilsner owing to the yeast.

The most famous of the Bohemian pilsners are Pilsner Urquell and Budvar (Czechvar in the U.S.), but the Czech Republic is loaded with breweries and pubs, most specializing in pilsners. Staropramen, Crystal, Lev, Lobkowicz, Rebel, and Primator are just a few available via export. A slow, steady amble through the Czech Republic would be a beer trip worthy of any in Germany, Belgium or the British Isles.

K. Florian Klemp is a research analyst at Duke University in Durham, NC, and an award-winning homebrewer.
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Tasting Notes

  • Pilsner Urquell

    Urquell means “original source,” and, in essence, the moniker was added to protect the originator of the style. The worldwide imitators may be good in their own right, but Urquell is distinctive. The hop aroma is soft, flowery and round. The mouthfeel is full, the flavor is full of hops and malt with a slight sweetness. At about 40 international bittering units (IBU), Urquell is bitter, but the soft water rinses the palate within seconds.

    ABV: 4.4%
  • Ceské Budejovice Budvar

    Budweiser Budvar in German, imported to the United States as Czechvar, and brewed in Bohemia, Budvar is a very aromatic, less bitter example of pilsner. Malty, with a sweetish background, Budvar is as aromatic as any pilsner. The gentle bitterness, about 25 IBU, takes an uncharacteristic back seat in this pilsner. It is lagered for 90 days, producing a smooth, enticing brew.

    ABV: 5.0%
  • Spaten Premium Pils

    Few names are more respected in brewing than the Munich brewery, Spaten. Spaten Pils exemplifies German pilsner beer. It has a little more maltiness than most, and the hop character is firm without being forceful. A rich Bavarian hop aroma makes it a well-rounded beer that can be enjoyed and savored any time. A classic German pils.

    ABV: 5.0%
  • Bitburger Pils

    Brewed in Bitburg, Germany, in the western Rhineland, Bitburger Pils is light gold in color, fairly dry, and well hopped. The malt character is light, but not at all overwhelmed by the crisp hop bitterness. The Bitburger Brewery was founded in 1817 and one of the first to produce a pils, in 1884. Made with German malt and a blend of German hops, Bitburger is the crisp, quenching beer that you might find perfect for summertime.

    ABV: 4.5%