The Low Down on Brown

By K. Florian Klemp Published May 2003, Volume 24, Number 2
Samuel Smiths Nut Brown Ale
Newcastle Brown Ale
Tollemache and Cobbold Cobnut Brown Ale
Mash House Nut Brown Ale

England’s individual beer styles are a result of the golden age of English brewing, the 18th and 19th centuries. Brown ales sit right in the middle. They are unassuming, working-class brews. Imminently drinkable, rich with classic English character, and midway between pale ales and porters, brown ales are ready and able to slake any thirst.

Pale ales were brewed extensively in central England, but brown ales held fort in aother areas of England as a distinctive alternative.

The Roots

Until about 300 years ago, most English beer was dark, murky, and often dubiously fermented with wild yeast. It had some smoky character, as malt was dried over wood or coal fires. Often, the malt was referred to as “brown malt.” At a time when a single malt was used to make beer, it is easy to see why the beers had the character that they did.

Multiple batch brewing was common in the Middle Ages. Successive worts were drawn from the mash via saturation and draining of the grist. Each batch produced a lower-strength wort and was designated stout, strong brown, common brown, and intire, in decreasing order of strength. Common brown is an approximation of today’s brown ale, but was significantly stronger.

Eventually, malting skills progressed to the point where some specific types of malt were produced. These ran the gamut from pale through amber, brown, and even dark brown. These malts were mixed in different ratios, or used alone, to produce a rainbow of ales, including porter, brown ale, stout, mild, and pale ales, with porter often being the dominant brew. Sometimes, finished beers—some aged, some new—were blended.

By the early 19th century, newly developed pale malts spawned something of a revolution in brewing. Pale ales were brewed extensively in central England, but brown ales held fort in other areas of England as a distinctive alternative, especially in London and later in the northeast. Brown ales were further distilled as a style with the London brewers favoring a darker, sweeter, low-strength beer, while those in the northeast made theirs stronger, crisper, and lighter in color. These two delineations still exist.

The advent of homebrewing and microbrewing in America had yet another profound effect on brown ale formulations. As they were not necessarily beholden to traditional parameters, these experimental brewers played with the ingredients enough to warrant recognition of a neo-brown style. They preserved color and malt character but pushed the hop envelope significantly by using generous amounts for both bittering and aroma. They also brewed to a higher gravity. Brown ale is now a popular brew all across America.

K. Florian Klemp is an award-winning homebrewer and general hobbyist who thinks there is no more sublime marriage than that of art and science.
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Tasting Notes

  • Samuel Smiths Nut Brown Ale

    Samuel Smiths Nut Brown is deep amber in color and sports a wonderful, balancing hop character. Sitting in the background is a distinct and subtle buttery note. It meshes well with the sweet caramel and malt flavors. The signature Samuel Smith character is in part due to the practice of rousing the highly sedimenting yeast to aid in fermentation, done in old-fashioned Yorkshire slate squares. The Old Brewery Tadcaster was founded in 1758 and thus bills itself as Yorkshire’s eldest, and perhaps it’s finest, brewing establishment.

    ABV: 5.0%
  • Newcastle Brown Ale

    “Newkie” Brown is one of the most drinkable beers around. It is not without some complexity, however. Reddish-brown in color, soft to the palate, and just enough elegant English hops to offset the delicate caramel maltiness. Brewed with English pale and dark caramel malt, Newcastle is actually a blend of two separate beers. First commercially available in 1927 at Newcastle upon Tyne, its popularity has never waned. It is still the most popular bottled English beer. If you can’t enjoy this one, you simply don’t like beer.

    ABV: 4.7%
  • Tollemache and Cobbold Cobnut Brown Ale

    A rare example of the Southern English or London style of brown ale, Cobnut is truly a session beer. Dark brown, with a sweetish, caramel, chocolate flavor and equally enticing aroma. Few beers of this strength are this complex. It has been brewed in rural Suffolk in southeast England since 1723, primarily in Ipswich. “Tolly” Cobbold also makes a Special Nut Brown Ale that is a little stronger, at 4.2% ABV, than the Cobnut Brown, which comes in at 3.2% ABV. One of the best England has to offer.

  • Mash House Nut Brown Ale

    Brewed at The Mash House pub and brewery in Fayetteville, NC. It has a toasty, nutty flavor, a medium brown hue, and finishes dry. Historically used, but now rarely employed, brown malt gives the beer a slight roasted and unique edge, The Northern Brewer hops finish it off in subtle and fine fashion. Hart uses 2-row, carapils, caramel 40, brown malt, and roasted barley, to make his Nut Brown complex and very quaffable. The Mash House produces an excellent range of lagers and ales, and expects to be bottling by April 1.

    ABV: 4.5%

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