Brewmaster John Keeling, who comes from the northern city of Manchester, where he started his brewing career, has certainly gone native. He is a passionate advocate of London beer and for him this renaissance has its links in the worldwide craft beer movement, though he also feels that the total abdication of the larger brewers in the city left a vacuum that demanded to be filled.
“London needs industry,” he says. “It cannot become a city of banks and pubs. Not only is that depressing, it is against the character of the city.”
Keeling’s latest beer is Wild River, an intensely hoppy U.S.-influenced beer. Could this possibly be the start of a new London style, a modern-day porter in the sense of being a true London beer?
“The modern London style will evolve,” Keeling says. “Just like in the U.S., all styles will be fair game for the London brewer. We will put our own interpretation onto these styles. I dare say it will not be the over-the-top style of the U.S. but a more restrained response.”
As various brewers speak about the future of London beer, there’s a guarded confidence. They all express a sense of pride in being part of this movement, though some offer a word of caution.
“London will never become again what it once was,” says Evin O’Riordain. “London can certainly sustain a lot more growth, in terms of breweries and good places to get good beer. In terms of London as the dominant center of brewing for the country, I’m not sure this will happen, and if it did, it would probably be due to people shouting louder about London. The effect/influence of some of the London breweries on the wider U.K. environment is not necessarily anything to do with the fact of them being in London. But, of course, it might well do.”
Andy Moffat shares some of these concerns: “I think there is the risk that the growth feels stronger than it is because there is a passionate minority who shout about it through social networking, etc. Sometimes when we are in the bubble, we may think Joe Public is also as interested and passionate about beer as we are. But in reality, London is a big city with real ethnic diversity, and I wonder if the beer scene sometimes feels bigger than it really is. I still know plenty of wine drinkers who would not touch Jacob’s Creek but happily swig Foster’s. In our immediate vicinity of Tottenham, any form of beer scene has yet to emerge.”
On the other hand, if you want ebullient optimism, Logan Plant is your man: “London is one of the biggest, most vibrant and stylish cities in the world. It will sustain anything if enough people believe in something, and a lot of people believe in having a good time and trying new things. Those people also like to, in typical British fashion, get behind the small guy, and that’s what we craft micros are. Honest, caring folk, creating an amazing product that people love and support wholly. It’s a great to speak to so many people who can talk about your beers for five minutes picking out the finer characteristics of the malts and hops you’ve used. I love it; it’s a buzz!”
The surge of London breweries is seemingly unstoppable, but that hasn’t meant those involved in the London brewing revolution/renaissance are snapping at each other from their respective barricades. Beer swaps are common, so you will find Kernel’s bottles in Duke’s Brew & Que or beers from Redemption, London Fields and Camden alongside Fuller’s at the Union Tavern. Brewing collaborations are de rigueur, while the London Brewers’ Alliance brings together everyone within Greater London (as well as honorary members Windsor & Eton). According to the Alliance’s secretary, Steve Williams, “It aims to unite those who make local beer with those that love it, and represent the vibrant heritage and contemporary scene of beer brewing in the great city of London.”
London is indeed calling.
