Rock ’n’ Roll Brewmasters
One of the newest breweries is Beavertown in the East London borough of Hackney; its Lilliputian kit is tucked away close to the kitchen at Duke’s Brew and Que, formerly an old boozer that is now the home of classic ribs, juicy burgers and great craft beer. Brewmaster and co-founder is Logan Plant, whose father is Robert, formerly of Led Zeppelin. Like Dad, Logan was a singer in a rock ’n’ roll band that toured the world, and he was always keen to try the local brews. It was only when he was in Brooklyn savoring some of the local craft beer that he had an epiphany.
“After coming off stage, a local hipster directed me to a late-night joint where numerous ales flowed and pulled pork was served until the early hours,” he tells me. “Three lashings of pork later and half a yard of ale down my neck, I knew that this was it! All that nonsense of note taking and gargling beers from all over the world suddenly hit me between the eyes. I had found my calling!”
Beers brewed by Plant include Neck Oil, based on the sweetish session ales of the English Midlands, 8 Ball Rye IPA, which Plant describes as “a massive nod to the U.S.,” and Smog Rocket. The latter is a fabulous smoked porter with a creamy palate, subtle smoke notes and mocha and chocolate in the background.
While at Duke’s, I also tried one of his Alpha series of experimental beers, an American pale ale that has been brewed with the Summit hop. It’s a big blast of beer with an almost savory note on the nose that is also joined by an abundance of grapefruit. It’s bitter but also beatific in the way it blesses the beer with a massively tangy and sweet, overwrought citrus character followed by the sort of bitter finish that’s like a dream you never want to end.
“Our Alpha series will range from pale ales to saisons, imperials, exports, browns, stouts and anything we can stick on the bar at Duke’s to stimulate and educate people with,” Logan says. “It offers no boundaries, which is like looking into the void with regards to brewing. Scary!”
Pride of London
Amid all these young breweries with their rock ’n’ roll brewmasters and plates of pizza (Crate Brewery exists side by side with a pizzeria), let’s not forget Fuller’s and Meantime. The latter go from strength to strength. Under the tutelage of Alastair Hook, they produce a variety of great lager styles (as well as porter, pale ale and IPA). I was recently wowed by their Friesian Pilsner, a crisp take on Jever. It has a bitter lemon bite and a Saaz-led hoppiness that leaves footprints in the mouth. Its inspiration might be northern Germany, but it’s a London beer. The same goes for the brewery’s Chocolate Porter, Pilsner and London Lager.
Undisputedly, the beer most associated with the capital is Fuller’s London Pride, the brewery’s flagship beer, a bittersweet pale ale with an exquisite balance between citrus orange and fresh, crisp cracker-like notes on the palate. However, as well as a full range of beers that appeal to more conservative palates, Fuller’s has also brewed an intriguing selection of bottled beers with recipes from its archives. Called the Past Masters series, the first two were XX Strong Ale and Double Stout, both of late 19th-century origin. The most recent, the third in the series, was Old Burton Extra, based on a 1931 recipe.
Respect for Fuller’s is immense among the new brewers. “Fuller’s is an institution in London,” says Jon Swaine at Hackney, “and this rise in awareness of other London breweries will only draw attention to their legacy and influence on modern beers.” Redemption’s Andy Moffat is also a big fan: “I am always captivated listening to experienced brewers such as Fuller’s John Keeling and Derek Prentice recounting stories of days gone by and passing on their extensive knowledge and appreciation of beer.”
