Beer In Wine Country

The Search Is Easier Than Expected

By Amanda Baltazar Published September 2009, Volume 30, Number 4

And that delicate flavor probably works well for all the wine enthusiasts who stop by.

“I get lots comments from people who’ve been wine tasting all day and say they really needed a beer,” he said. “Or there’s a person in a group who really likes beer.”

Napa Valley Brewing has a little of everything: the brewpub; an outdoor bar complete with a horseshoe pit, where, depending on your level of sobriety, you can pitch horseshoes; a fine dining restaurant; and a European-style inn upstairs with around 20 rooms with shared bathrooms.

To the west, in Santa Rosa, Sonoma, is Russian River Brewing Co., which takes full advantage of its location in wine country, using wine barrels to make its beer.

It also triumphantly uses Brettanomyces wild yeast, which according to owner-brewer Vinnie Cilurzo, many wine makers―and brewers―are afraid of. “It’s the anti-Christ to many because it’s tough to control, but we are very careful with it,” he said.

He likes to use this yeast for the slight acidity it gives to his beers as well as an earthy, leathery flavor. Cilurzo also likes to add two good bacteria―Lactobactillus, which is commonly found in yogurt and Pediococcus―to bring additional acidity and sourness to the beers.

He uses the Brettanomyces yeast and the bacteria with any beers he ages in wine barrels “to add unique flavors and make the beers more funky,” he said. That’s not the only overlap with the wine world: Cilurzo, who has been brewing beer since 1988, began his career in his parents’ wine business.

Pliny the Elder is Russian River’s best selling beer. It’s a double IPA, with twice the hops found in a typical IPA, and higher alcohol. The other two favorites are Damnation, a Belgian-style strong ale, and Blind Pig IPA. “We’re known for very hoppy IPAs,” Cilurzo added.

Born and raised in the United Kingdom and now a resident in the Pacific Northwest, Amanda Baltazar has been surrounded by beer her entire life. She now writes about it, and other topics for magazines ranging from Beverage World to The Toronto Star.
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