Next, it’s an easy walk across the Bay Street Bridge into Vic West. Besides Lighthouse (lighthousebrewing.com)—purveyors of Race Rocks Amber—there’s another brewpub/hotel, Spinnakers (spinnakers.com; 308 Catherine St.). Mitchell notes that Spinnaker’s became Canada’s first proper brewpub in 1984 “and they’re still going strong.” Mitchell enthusiastically mentions that there’s always a cask-conditioned beer and that the brewers have been experimenting with infusing newfangled adjuncts, often various teas. Beyond the beers, the grounds covering the bistro and guesthouse are resplendent. But if you’d rather not enjoy your farm-to-table entrée paired with cask ale overlooking the harbor, they can be brought to your room. That’s northern hospitality.
To ensure sampling from so many breweries doesn’t wreak havoc on your beer trip, make your way to Mitchell’s greasy spoon of choice, The Marble Arch Fish & Chips (3468 Tillicum Road). Getting there is either a healthy walk or a ride on the northbound 50 bus. Once there, you’re treated to an off-the-beaten path “Chinese/Canadian hybrid joint,” that slings everything from fish’n’chips to sweet’n’sour pork to cheap’n’satisfying bacon’n’eggs. Another spot, John’s Place (johnsplace.ca; 723 Pandora Ave.), is a breakfast institution “insanely popular with locals” and the fresh-from-scratch eclectic and hearty fare will put you on the right path, especially if it’s the one that follows the ale trail. Lastly, La Belle Patate (1215 Esquimalt Rd. in Esquimalt) is Mitchell’s pick for the best poutine, calling it “authentic … and so damn good.” Consisting of hand-cut fries, cheese curds, and gravy with additional toppings of your choosing, it’s Montreal cuisine, but no trip to Canada is replete without it.
