Ski Resorts

By Brian Yaeger Published March 2011, Volume 32, Number 1

Up north, Squaw Valley is the area’s second largest resort, with Alpine Meadows and Homewood Mountain nearby. This end of the lake is more developed and you’ll find everything you need in Tahoe City. When the lifts close, Kramer swears by The Auld Dubliner (1850 Village South Road, #41) in the Olympic Village, by virtue of having the best bartenders. This small chain finds footholds in similar ski resort towns and while the beer selection leans toward the usual U.K. imports, a hearty beef stew or corned beef is hard to argue with at the end of a ski day. For fine dining, Kramer notes that Wolfdale’s (640 North Lake Blvd., Tahoe City) is incredibly popular due to their East-meets-West style surf and turf menu, and happy hour.

Getting your day started comes down to two main options according to Kramer. If you’re willing to take your time and fill up in town, the hands down best bet is the Fire Sign Café (1785 W Lake Blvd.), where the varieties of eggs bennies could probably keep you full past lunch until you’re done for the day. Otherwise, right at the base of the KT-22 lift is the Blue Onion, serving up savory egg dishes, Mexican favorites such as chilaquiles, and sweet treats from the griddle.

A little farther north in Truckee is Northstar-at-Tahoe, which Kramer indicates is the most family-friendly of the resorts. Sugar Bowl and Donner Ranch, known as the choice for the thrifty skier, are nearby along with Boreal, a boarder’s paradise since the installation of the Vans Snowboard Park.

For the beer lover, Truckee’s main attraction is Fifty/Fifty Brewing (11197 Brockway Road), where brewmaster Todd Ashman migrated after leaving Chicagoland’s Flossmoor Station. In addition to après ski favorites like Foggy Goggle Belgian White and Donner Party Porter, ask if they have anything from the Eclipse series of barrel-aged imperial stouts, since the recipe is a holdover from Ashman’s Flossmoor Station days. Incidentally, Kramer says the pizzas here are killer.

Lastly, over the state line in Nevada, two great resorts are Diamond Peak and Mt. Rose. Of course the real allure is that, being Nevada, you don’t have to stop partying until the bars close, which is usually never. Tucked inside El Dorado Hotel and Casino is Brews Brothers (345 North Virginia St.) with live music. Silver Peak Brewery (124 Wonder St.) has six year-round styles and as many seasonals as well. Originating in Sparks just up the road, Great Basin Brewing (5525 S Virginia St.) recently opened its second location. The fact that Great Basin consistently medals at GABF is a good indicator of the quality of their beers as well as the variety. Try the Cerveza Chilebeso if you can handle a spicy beer. And look for Buckbean (1155 S. Rock Blvd., Suite 490) tallboy cans of Black Noddy Schwarzbier and Orange Blossom, both widely available around the Tahoe area.

Accommodations are plentiful throughout Lake Tahoe. For the opulent beer traveler, there’s the Ritz-Carlton (13031 Ritz-Carlton Highlands Court) mid-mountain on Northstar, providing for the ultimate in ski-in/ski-out lodging, with the expected $400 per night starting price. On the flipside, Kramer recommends the Tahoma Meadows B&B (6821 West Lake Blvd., Tahoma, CA). These cottages are close to Squaw Valley but far south enough to provide good access to Tahoe City and South Lake Tahoe. Not to mention all rooms are under $200 a night and include a home-cooked breakfast.

Après Ski

Squaw’s KT-22 Express, dubbed the best chairlift in America by several notable skiers, services advanced and expert runs. It also picks up from the base village where, after you take off those tight boots, you can relax at Le Chamois. If the sun happens to be shining, enjoy “The Chammy’s” spacious deck, otherwise the inside Loft will be packed. Either way, Kramer advises getting a Snowshoe―coffee with Irish cream and whiskey.

Brian Yaeger is the author of Red, White, and Brew: An American Beer Odyssey. He recently moved to Portland where he homebrews and is exploring the beers of the Pacific Northwest with his wife Half Pint and his dog Dunkel. He can't wait to have a beer (nothing light) with Fred Eckhardt.
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