By K. Florian Klemp Published November 2011, Volume 32, Number 5
Rodenbach Gran Cru
New Belgium La Folie Sour Brown Ale
Duchesse De Bourgogne
Liefmans Goudenband
The East Flanders brown, or oud bruin (old brown) style, is famously produced by Leifmans in Oudenaarde. The brand is known as Goudenband. The main difference between it and Flnders red resides mainly in the method of fermentation. All necessary organisms, Saccharomyces, Pediococcus and Lactobacillus strains, are added to the wort prior to fermentation. It is said that this mixed culture originated at Rodenbach. The primary fermentation is done in open squares, where some airborne wild organisms may alight, and lasts about one week. When the wort reaches about 75 percent attenuation, it is transferred to stainless-steel tanks and the secondary organisms, Lactobacillus and Pediococcus, take over. Brettanomyces is absent from the mix, as is oak obviously, a condition reflected in the finished beer. The result is less attenuation and a bit less fermentative complexity, but this is more than made up for with more robust contribution from malt. Goudenband is hopped a bit higher, giving it a more classic ale profile.
The grist composition between the two sibling styles varies from brewery to brewery, but all use continental malts, at home in top- and bottom-fermented brews alike. Rodenbach has a base of Vienna malt, with crystal and deep brown Special B for dextrine, flavor and color. Liefmans prefers pilsner malt and Caramelized Vienna and Munich malt for color and sweetness. Other brewers use variations on that template. A measure of 10 to 20 percent flaked maize is common to lighten body and aid lactic fermentation. Red emerges with a brisk fresh fruity character of cherry and plum, and brown with notes of dried dark fruit, toffee and caramel. The less famous versions of the two styles can come very close to one another in character, further proof that stylistic separation is sometimes futile. Regional conditions and a common pool of ingredients make it even more so.
The rather rare and highly unusual ales of Flanders are without a doubt an acquired taste, but in this era of experimentation and exploration, they are not without many devotees. Sour ales in general are becoming more and more popular, and even in America some adventurous brewers are toying with these wild and wooly organisms in a fashion that would flatter Flanders. If you haven’t tried them yet, take a taste on the wild side.
K. Florian Klemp is an award-winning homebrewer and general hobbyist who thinks there is no more sublime marriage than that of art and science.
Tags: Brettanomyces, Flanders, Flanders sour ale, Flemish-Style Brown Ale, lambic, Leifmans, Rodenbach, Saccharomyses cerevesiae
Tasting Notes
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Rodenbach Gran Cru
The classic Flanders red, Rodenbach Gran Cru is brewed in Roeslare by methods carefully selected over 190 years. It pours garnet in color with a fleeting beige head. The ripe aroma is full of vinous notes, sour cherry, berry and hints of vinaigrette. The airy acetic acid slowly gives way to intense fruitiness. Thin and tart at first, Gran Cru segues to cherry, currant and plum, followed by oak, vanilla, faint must and more puckering sourness in the finish. The incredible sweet-sour mustiness is quite quenching on this muggy Carolina summers’ eve. The “Burgundy of Belgium” never disappoints.
ABV: 6%
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New Belgium La Folie Sour Brown Ale
From the renowned New Belgium Brewery in Fort Collins, CO, La Folie (The Folly) is part of the “Lips of Faith” series. This sour red-brown ale is aged between one and three years in French oak before bottling. Brewer Peter Bouckaert cut his teeth at Rodenbach. Crystal clear and tawny, it pours lively and is still after a few moments. The aroma offers cherry and hints of pineapple, with some vinegar and a full earthy dose of Brett. Medium-light in the mouth, the acidic edge is surprisingly mellow. The flavor is an appetizing balance of must, wood and sour fruit, the finish a firm shot of dark malt vinegar. As complex as any Flanders ale, La Folie hits the mark.
ABV: 6%
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Duchesse De Bourgogne
The Duchesse is brewed by the Brouwerij Verhaeghe in Vichte, East Flanders. This Red shows brilliant copper-red, the foam fairly tenacious and clingy. Horsey notes amid caramel toasted malt, vanilla, cherry and malt vinegar in the nose. Fluffy and sweetish on the palate, the flavor also has some residual sugary malt some spicy, nutty almond, vinous notes, reminiscent of port. The earthy and sour finish is rather subdued, and lingers very little. Duchesse is a blend of 8- and 18-month oak-aged brews, the bright, effervescent young and mature old bouncing off one another deftly. Well-rounded and smooth.
ABV: 6%
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Liefmans Goudenband
The Brouwerij Liefmans has been brewing in Oudenaarde in East Flanders since 1679, and Goudenband is its crowning grace. After two full years of aging, it is invigorated with fresh young beer, bottled and cellared to condition. It pours hazy ruddy brown, with a substantial head, lacy and sticky on the goblet. The aroma is soft and full of toffee malt, raisin, rum, apple and sourish lactic notes. The mouthfeel is medium, the sweet and sour flavor a combination of dark fruit, sherry and clean fruity tartness. Goudenband has a creamy finish and enough carbonation to keep the pour lively throughout.
ABV: 8%
