Sedlmayr’s first “pale” beer was a bottom-fermented Märzen introduced to the public at the Munich Oktoberfest in 1841, made with his newly developed amber Munich malt, decidedly paler than that made for dunkels and bocks. Dreher’s new brew, made with his Vienna malt, was offered to the public mere months later, and was even lighter than Sedlmayr’s.
Meanwhile, Bavarian transplant Josef Groll was busy making golden malt and even paler brew in Plzeň, Bohemia. This golden lager known as pilsner essentially changed brewing history. Brewers scrambled to compete with the new beer from Bohemia. Except for those in Munich, that is. Bavarian beer was expected to have some color, as they were famous for the reddish brown, and very traditional, dunkels and bocks. Even Märzen beers were considered unconventionally pale by comparison.
After years of tinkering, Sedlmayr’s sons (now in charge of the brewery) finally made the malt they desired, resulting in the test introduction of the new Munich helles in 1894. The new blonde beer was heartily accepted by most, but it was viewed by some of the old guard as a surrender of esteemed tradition. Bavarian brewers disagreed whether this was an affront to their proud heritage or a necessary commercial concession to trends and modernization, and more importantly, commercial viability. Wisely, the old-timers acquiesced, and brewers throughout Germany began adding helles to their repertoire. Markedly different than pilsner, it was maltier and less hop-forward, features favored by Bavarians.
Helles is the Bavarian answer to the plain, uncomplicated, flavorful and carefully crafted beers consumed on a regular basis by the masses. Beers such as this rely on a simple recipe made with the highest quality ingredients, and craftsmanship that is able to entice the maximum from a somewhat Spartan approach. What else would we expect from the some of the finest brewers in the world? A bill of German pilsner malt and a noble hop variety are all that is needed to produce the unpretentious helles wort.
The subtle, underlying malt sweetness and delicate grain notes are characteristics of the malt itself, and provide enough depth for a beer of simplicity―this is complimented by a soft, medium body and mouthfeel derived from the protein-rich nature of the malt and the mashing skill of the brewer.
Though slightly tilted towards the malt, helles is a well-balanced beer. It offers the spicy, herbal aroma of German hops at restrained levels, and enough bitterness in the finish to dry the palate. The clean finish is, of course, a product of generations of carefully selected bottom-fermented yeast and full lagering. Bavarian yeast tends to produce malty, dextrinous brews, characteristics evident in helles.
There may be hundreds of them to be found fresh on draft, a staple in brewery-rich Bavaria. Most run about 4.8 to 5.2 percent ABV, but those in the range of 5.5 to 5.9 percent can also be found. These stronger versions, made alongside regular helles, are often brewed as a special or festive brew. In fact, some beers presented at the Munich Oktoberfest are deep golden and not the amber hue that we would expect in exported Märzen. These are essentially more formidable helles. There are some stellar versions made in America, with Stoudt’s Golden Lager, Victory Lager and Penn Gold among the best.
Most true beer lovers need not be reminded that there is plenty to appreciate in elegant simplicity, easy drinkability and sublime refinement. Helles was the final frontier for the brewers of Bavaria: the polished consummation of centuries of brewing, standing proudly among the great beers of the world. Bohemian pilsner may be more copied, but helles remains a Munich original.
