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Belgian Strong Golden Ale

By K. Florian Klemp Published March 2011, Volume 32, Number 1
Duvel
Delirium Tremens
Lucifer
Malheur 10º
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The Devil’s Disciples

Moortgat treated the public to Duvel Green in 2008, a draft-only version that is cold-filtered and kegged after the single fermentation stage (30 days). Since there is no second addition of dextrose and refermentation in the bottle, it comes in at a more modest 6.8 percent and finishes without the refined complexity of regular Duvel. Nonetheless, it is an outstanding brew in its own right, softer and less lively than the original.

Moortgat also produced a stronger (9.5% ABV) version of Duvel in 2007 dubbed “Tripel Hop,” as a special edition brew. It is dry-hopped, and made with Saaz, Styrian Goldings, and American Amarillo hops. A second edition was bottled earlier this year and released in the fall in America.

Though there are numerous Duvel-inspired brews in Belgium and North America, they are less common than Belgian tripels. In fact, the line between the two is often fuzzy. Strong golden ale is crisper, more delicate and lighter in color than tripel, but both have the familiar spicy and estery character that only a Belgian yeast can present, with a floral, noble hop nose.

The interest in Belgian ale has exploded in the past 40 years. This has led Belgian brewers to tinker and introduce new brews. In North America, the microbrewery revolution and general interest in craft beer inspired its brewers to either experiment with Belgian styles, or base their entire portfolio around them. Sprinkled among the breweries on both continents are strong golden ales, and the Duvel template has served them well. Look for Delirium Tremens, Moinette Blonde, Brigand, La Chouffe and Malheur 10º from Belgium, and Avery Salvation, Russian River Damnation and North Coast PranQster in America. There are many others. Gravities range from 7 to 10 percent ABV, and a well-made version will sport a billowing, lacy head and sustaining carbonation.

Duvel not only fostered a beer style, but has long been one of the most recognizable brand names among beer aficionados. As such, it has much to do with today’s worldwide appreciation of Belgian specialties in general and strong golden offerings in particular. They are alluring, charming and deviously friendly: fun to hang around with, but capable of biting you in the end.

K. Florian Klemp is an award-winning homebrewer and general hobbyist who thinks there is no more sublime marriage than that of art and science.
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Tasting Notes

  • Duvel

    Bright, clear yellow-gold, Duvel’s snowy-white, fluffy head is fed by an impressive, persistent bead of carbonation. With feathery lace coating the glass, the aroma features gentle, flowery Old World hops and chardonnay-like notes of pear. It has a noticeably silky mouthfeel for a beer of such lithe body. The flavor has hints of bitter orange and light malt sweetness, the finish is dry and appetizing, with a firm, lingering bitterness. There is a suggestion of hot spice throughout. The cold-conditioning smoothes out what might otherwise be a more edgy brew.

    ABV: 8.5%

  • Delirium Tremens

    Brewed at the Brouwerij Huyghe in Melle, Belgium. DT is full gold with a billowing pearly white head and champagne-like bead. Melon and citrus mingle in the nose with spicy notes from the yeast and hops. The flavor has a touch of wheaty phenol and cinnamon, and a suggestion of orange blossom honey. Huyghe has been brewing since 1906, and DT has been made since 1989. Its crispness and complexity is a product of three different yeasts, which also lends background earth tones. The jaunty bottle leaves no doubt as the intention of this delight.

    ABV: 8.5%

  • Lucifer

    Brewed in Mechelen, Belgium, by the Brouwerij Het Anker, Lucifer is every bit the sneering troublemaker that the name implies. Full, brassy gold in color, the ivory head liberates spicy, grainy, mineral aromas and lavish, resinous hop. The mouthfeel is medium-light, and the flavor is big for the style. The liberal use of hops gives Lucifer a distinct hoppy accent that meshes well with the peppery notes, banana, honey and pear flavors, and grainy malt backbone. This is a relatively rugged, earthy and rustic version of the style.

    ABV: 8.0%

  • Malheur 10º

    This relative newcomer to the Belgian brewing scene may be only 13 years old, but its portfolio is astounding. Malheur 10º is huge at 10 percent ABV, and deceptively mellow. The aroma is a perfume of floral hops, lavender and mixed fruit (tangerine and spiced peach). It pours slightly hazy with a modest head, and is peach gold in color. Medium bodied, the flavor is fruity and soft, with a noticeable underlying alcohol burn and clean, light candy finish. Most Belgian golden ales are considered an aperitif, but 10º could also serve as a companion to fruit desserts.

    ABV: 10%

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