Strong Scotch Ale

By K. Florian Klemp Published January 2009, Volume 29, Number 6
Skullsplitter Orkney Ale
Traquair House Ale
Belhaven Wee Heavy
Duck Rabbit Wee Heavy

A Sturdy Profile

Ales are more widely consumed in Scotland, despite the fame of its “water of life,” or whiskey. Along with oats and wheat, barely is a prominent crop, one capably grown in the cool, maritime conditions throughout much of the country. That from the Highlands in the north is primarily used in the distilling industry, while that in the Lowlands of the watershed south is preferred for brewing. This loose delineation helps explain the geographical location of Scotland’s distilleries and breweries, respectively.

Strong Scotch ales are as much a reflection of its land as any brew might claim to be, and each component has its own rather game contribution to the sum. The barley itself is quite similar to that grown in England, though Scottish brewers will say that it is indeed more suited to their own ale. Traditionally, the pale ale base malt was kilned a tad more than its English counterpart, resulting a little more overall depth and color. Scotch ales display brownish-red to chestnut to black-brown color.

They are often augmented with a small amount of chocolate or black malt, but the extra color historically comes from a smidgen of roasted barley. Prudent brewers would roast the unsprouted or “slack” barley and use it in the grist. This was usually about 1 to 3 percent of the green barleycorn, a measure of roasted barley that is often used now. A minimalist grist of premium pale ale malt and scant roasted barley would represent a historically correct Scotch ale. Caramel malt is often eschewed for kettle carmelization and a relatively high mash temperature.

Scotch ale yeast is something of an anomaly, and works similarly to lager or German ale yeast. That is to say that it operates at well under the temperature that a traditional ale yeast would, around 55 degrees F on average versus 65 degrees or thereabouts. The fermentation is slow and clean, thereby producing no appreciable esters. This is follow by a lagerbier-like period of cold-conditioning to smooth the edges and absorb any leftover, rogue flavors. The yeast is also a low-attenuator, producing a fuller, less alcoholic beer. Coupled with the high mash temperature, this results in a robust mouthfeel and juicy texture.

Hops rates are low, and not only does this help accent the malt, but has some historical precedence. Hops are nearly impossible to grow in Scotland and were expensive to import, a factor that helped to mold the traditional profile. There was a period of time when hops were taxed heavily in Scotland, but malt was not. The reverse was true in England. As the most available hops were those from Kent, England, the Scots grudgingly used only the amount necessary to balance their beer, instead of making commercial trade with their neighbors to the south.

The final stroke of a fine Scotch ale masterpiece is the use of soft water that was in abundance early Scottish brewing centers, that just so happens to make splendid malt-prominent strong beers. The final product generally weighs in at 6.5 to 8.5 percent ABV, and is an exceptionally smooth, satisfying, soothing quaff.

With the throes of winter upon us, wee heavy may perfectly fit the bill alongside a roaring fire and some comfort food.

K. Florian Klemp is an award-winning homebrewer and general hobbyist who thinks there is no more sublime marriage than that of art and science.
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Tasting Notes

  • Skullsplitter Orkney Ale

    Perhaps no ale is more cozily enwrapping than this one. It is brewed at the Orkney Brewery in a former schoolhouse in rustic Quayloo, on the Orkney archipelago in northernmost Scotland. Deep mahogany with a creamy, mocha, sticky foam, Skullsplitter brings smoke, malt and toffee to the nose. The viscous mouthfeel blends with malted milk, figs, a wisp of smoke and buttery caramel in the flavor. It is named for the infamous Thorfinn Einarsson, the 7th Viking Earl of Orkney of a millennium ago. Neolithic Orkney is the perfect home for this hearty and rugged Scotch ale.

    ABV: 8.5%
  • Traquair House Ale

    From Peeblesshire in southern Scotland, the Traquair House Brewery is a restored old brewery whose products hearken to Scottish brewing traditions. The House Ale pours clear brunette, with a lacy tan head. The earthy aroma has vanilla, raisin and malt. Silky and rich on the palate, clean and flavorful with caramel, molasses and that rustic malty backdrop. The brewery dates to 1738, and the new establishment pays infallible homage to the original with its Scotch ales, including the coriander-spiced Jacobite.

    ABV: 7.2%
  • Belhaven Wee Heavy

    From the coastal city of Dunbar in southeast Scotland, Belhaven has been producing its classic Scottish ales since 1719, and is built on a former monastery that dates to the 13th century. Garnet in color, with a fleeting head, this wee heavy offers sweet caramel, cherry, almond and faint vinous notes in the aroma. Medium-bodied and relatively zesty, the flavor has some hints of red wine, fruit and clean maltiness. The finish is fairly dry for a wee heavy, but at 6.5 percent ABV, it bridges the gap between session beer and nightcap superbly.

    ABV: 6.5%
  • Duck Rabbit Wee Heavy

    Brewed by the Duck Rabbit Craft Brewery in the tiny, eastern North Carolina town of Farmville, the wee heavy is one of the finest strong Scotch ales among the many in America. Classic deep ruby-brown in color, the rich aroma has chocolate and cherry along with sweet malt and dark caramel. Dense and brawny on the palate, it presents a dessert-like mixture of malt, toffee and dark fruit, held together by a round earthiness, and balanced with a complement of hops.

    ABV: 8.0%

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