Baltic Porters

By K. Florian Klemp Published May 2002, Volume 23, Number 2
Carnegie Stark Porter
Sinebrychoff Porter
Utenos Porter
Zywiec Porter

Few beers fit the season like a Baltic porter does winter and early spring. Siblings of the Imperial stouts, Baltic porters emanate from a swath of countries from Sweden to Poland, wending around the Baltic crescent and deep into eastern Europe. Descendants of the lineage of British porter exports in the 18th century, they range in color from mahogany red to inky dark, and pack a substantial dose of flavor and alcohol. These strong beers can approach barley wines in fortitude, Imperial stouts in complexity, and liqueurs in after-dinner contentment value.

Of all the Baltic porters, Poland has the best variety and the easiest to acquire.

Flavor Profile

Baltic porters are deep, dense and thoughtful beers. As they borrow much from other, more familiar styles, they have many layers of flavors. Sweet, soothing maltiness akin to the finest German bocks is present. Rummy, raisin and licorice notes similar to an old ale reside in the profile. The character also has hints of chocolate and coffee, and at times, a roasted background. All co-mingle into a smooth, silky flavor that is contemplative but robust. Hops rates are noticeable in the dark versions but understated in the lighter-colored ones. Satisfying indeed.

The Baltic porter brewers have borrowed style and technology from Germany, England and the Czech Republic, creating a somewhat hybridized category of strong beer. Some Baltic porters are top fermented and true to their roots, but others, unlike the porters of London, are bottom fermented, producing a soft roundness in the beer. These brews range from 5.5 percent to over 9 percent ABV.

From Whence?

Baltic porters share some traditions and characteristics with Imperial stouts, and at times are almost indistinguishable from them. These two styles do, in fact, have a common origin and traceable history. British breweries of the 18th and 19th centuries were famous for their stouts and porters. Seeking to expand markets and satisfy allies to the east, the British exported their dark ales to northern ports by way of the Baltic Sea, touching Scandinavia, Finland, the Baltic states of Estonia and Latvia, western Russia, and continental European port cities. These export ales were made stronger and hoppier than normal, which enabled them to endure the voyage. The extra alcoholic strength was no doubt a welcome attribute in those countries with harsh winters and a taste for the robust.

With distribution routes by both land and sea, it wasn’t long before Imperial stouts and strong porters made their way into many markets, from the northern port cities into landlocked eastern Europe. The style’s far-reaching appeal convinced many local breweries to make house versions. To this day, each region gives its porter a distinct stylistic interpretation. The farther one gets from England, the less these beers resemble the originals.

Generally speaking, Slavic and Baltic breweries produce strong porters as bottom-fermented lagers that resemble bocks in strength and flavor. Scandinavian brewers use top fermentation and their porters retain the dark roasted malt character.

Traveling through Porterland

The port cities of Sweden are a relatively short sail from Britain and thus provided a convenient and lucrative market for the British export ales. The first porter brewery in Sweden was established in 1791 by Brit William Knox in Gothenburg.
D. Carnegie and Co., Sweden’s largest brewery, produces the Baltic porter that most resembles the original porters of London. This holdover brew, called Stark Porter, is a gem. Like a London porter, it is of moderate strength, deep black, and top fermented. It is available throughout North America.

K. Florian Klemp is a research analyst at Duke University in Durham, NC, and an award-winning homebrewer.
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Tasting Notes

  • Carnegie Stark Porter

    
Located near Stockholm, Sweden, this brewery was founded in the 1830s by Scotsman D. Carnegie, originally in Gothenburg, and its porter has been brewed since 1836. Stark Porter measures in at 5.5 percent ABV. Deep black and dry, in most respects is very reminiscent of the premium porters of London. Rich, smooth and well balanced with a light molasses and coffee character, it pours with a sustaining, thick head. The bottles are vintage dated and can keep for several years. This top-fermented brew is a throwback to Sweden's early brewing era.

    ABV: 5.5%
  • Sinebrychoff Porter

    Brewed in Helsinki, Finland, by the country's oldest surviving brewery, founded in 1819 by Russian Nikolai Sinebrychoff. It is believed that "Koff" has been a porter brewery since its inception. Substantial in strength at 7.2 percent ABV, the brew is malty, with a nice bitter, roasty finish. Black as night, with a long-lasting creamy brown head. This beer survived Finnish prohibition.

    ABV: 7.2%
  • Utenos Porter

    

A beer new to the US import market from the Utenos brewery in Utena, Lithuania. Utenos porter is the softest of them all. It has a round, malty caramel flavor and aroma and measures just 6.8 percent ABV, but is quite robust. It displays a beautiful crystal-clear garnet color and is bottom fermented. The flavor is rich, full bodied, and ultra smooth. The brewery proudly proclaims, "This beer has been admired by connoisseurs for many years. Utenos porter offers exceptional indulgence." They are justified in making such a claim.

    ABV: 6.8%
  • Zywiec Porter

    Yet another of the relatively plentiful Polish porters, this is the granddaddy of them all at 9.3 percent ABV. The brewery has been around since 1856, the beer, since 1881.Very malty and somewhat sweet, it finishes with a dry, lightly bitter taste. The aroma is molasses and malt. Like a moderately hopped bock, with chocolate and coffee notes. This brew is bottom fermented and well rounded, with its potency hidden in its easy-drinking quality. A perfect combination of porter and doppelbock qualities make this a real treat. It would be hard to find a finer beer of any style.

    ABV: 9.3%

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