Bock to Basics

By K. Florian Klemp Published March 2002, Volume 23, Number 1
Capital Blonde Doppelbock
Aass Bock
Morretti La Rossa
Ayinger Celebrator

Most styles of beer have a signature characteristic or two that dominate their profile. If it’s the pure, unobstructed, lugubrious essence of malt you seek, reach for a bock. Born and raised in Germany, traditional bock beer and its brethren present unfettered maltiness to the palate like no other style of brew. These strong, lusty lagers come in several substyles beyond traditional bock―the stronger doppelbock, the paler, springtime helles/maibock, and the fortified eisbock.

Outside its native Germany, exquisite examples are brewed in Switzerland, Norway, Italy, Canada, The Netherlands and the United States. Bocks run the color gamut from golden to dark brown, and the strength scale from moderately strong to bludgeoning force. Some bocks are seasonal, coinciding even with religious calendars, but many can be found throughout the year.

The Birth of Bock

The roots of bock beer can be traced back to the 14th century and the city of Einbeck, in northern Germany. Bock’s history is less nebulous than that of many other beer styles. Einbeck was a major European trade center in the Middle Ages and a member of the powerful Hanseatic League, a group of cities that worked together to protect each others’ trade interests during a tumultuous time. Einbecks beers were highly regarded throughout Europe, and with the aid of the League, it wasn’t long before the product was exported to its devotees in England, Scandanavia, the Mideast, and Mediterranean and Baltic countries.

Several things contributed to the quality of Einbeck beer. The city is located in one of the earliest hop growing regions in Europe, which no doubt made the beer more stable and unique, considering that herbal gruit was the more common beer spice of the era. Einbeck beer was also brewed with the palest malt available, one-third wheat and two-thirds barley, making for a more delicate than usual beverage. It was brewed only in winter, and therefore stored cold, making it cleaner and less prone to infection. When compared to the generally murky, darker brews of the day, it’s no wonder that those of Einbeck won so many fans.

Even though Munich was a brewing center during the same time, its beer couldn’t match that of Einbeck. The Munich braumeisters set out to change this disparity. In 1612, Duke Maximillian I invited the best brewer in Einbeck, Elias Pichler, to teach them the moxie necessary to produce Einbeck beer. Munich’s indigenous brown beer, probably the forerunner of today’s dunkel, was then made using the Einbeck procedure. The resultant brew still was dark, and probably stronger. Within a few years, it became wildly popular. Refined over the years in keeping with advancing technology, these beers are known today as traditional bock.

Bocks are bottom fermented and extensively lagered to give them a smooth, deep maltiness. They are generally dark amber to dark brown in color and often scantily hopped. They are substantial beers at 6.0 to 7.5 percent alcohol by volume.

Many authors have presented various legends, some believable and others quite farfetched, about the origin of the bock name. One theory holds that it is a corruption of the beck in Einbeck. Another cites the German word for goat as the origin, referring to the kick of the strong brew or even its coincidence with zodiacal Capricorn. Yet another cites a corruption of the German word “pogkmedt” (mead) as the origin. Still another attributes bock to “Ainpoekische,” dialectic Bavarian for Einbeck, and a shortened version, “Poeckishe Pier.” This seems the most logical, but it is still open to debate.

K. Florian Klemp is a research analyst at Duke University in Durham, NC, and an award-winning homebrewer.
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Tasting Notes

  • Capital Blonde Doppelbock

    Brewed in Middleton, WI, the heart of US lager country, by Capital Brewery as a limited release in March and April. Bright gold in color, it pours with a rich, white head and boasts 8.5 percent ABV. The aroma is soft and malty, with a hint of Noble hops. The taste is crisp, well balanced, clean and malty. A cross between a helles bock and a doppelbock. Any trip to Madison should include a short side trip to Capital to enjoy its many fine beers, including a maibock, in the biergarten.

    ABV: 8.5%
  • Aass Bock

    Deep brown in color, and sporting a beautiful, lingering tan head, Aass Bock is of moderate strength at 6.0 percent ABV, but very wealthy in character. Lots of residual character demonstrated in a sweet, malty flavor, a full body, and chocolate and caramel notes. Brewer Aass Bryggeri in Drammen, Norway, takes its cues from Bavarian brewers of this style. One of the best bocks brewed outside of Germany.

    ABV: 6%
  • Morretti La Rossa

    Brewed in Udine, Italy, this beer straddles the traditional doppelbock style as it lists its gravity at 18 degrees Plato, right at the cusp. Deep amber-red in color with a wonderful malty aroma, the palate is somewhat light and dry but very pleasant, being rich but not cloying. The flavor rivals that of any German variety, with malt dominating and hops sitting in the background. The label designates the beer as a “doppio malto,” which translates to double malt. About 7.5 percent ABV.

    ABV: 7.5%
  • Ayinger Celebrator

    Deep mahogany in color, with a tan head, checking in at 7.2 percent ABV. Brewed in the village of Aying, in the foothills of the German Alps not far from Munich. The aroma is pure malt and little hop. Dark malts are very much in evidence in the flavor, with caramel and light roasty notes. It is relatively dry for a bock and the roasty finish lingers nicely.

    ABV: 7.2%

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