Pennichuck Brewing Co.
Milford, NH
Available: NH, MA, RI, CT, NY; soon in VT, PA
All Pennichuck beers have police, fire or EMS-related names, in recognition of brewery founder Phil Jewett’s career as a firefighter and paramedic. “Feuerwehrmann” is German for fireman.
Alcohol (vol.): 4.9
Alcohol (wt): 3.9
Color: 24
Bitterness: 23.8
Original gravity: 1050
A dark lager using imported German “noble” hops, it’s as black as Hades with a stunning nose of roasted grain, floral hops, vanilla pods and — this must be a first! — celery! The palate is oh-so-smooth, with creamy malt, a hint of roast and a gentle nudge of spicy hops. The finish is dry from the impact of dark malts, with a hint of peppery hops and a continuing vanilla note. That celery on the nose has me reaching for Cheddar cheese and crackers.
Not quite black, but very nearly so, it shows reddish glints in strong light. The nose is pleasantly bready and roasty with a nice suggestion of floral hops. Light hops bitterness teams up with the crackle of roast malts to provide the backbone for the dry but full-flavored palate. Roasted malts play through the center and the finish is long, linear and clean. Perhaps slightly big for the style, but I’m not complaining. This beer is very tasty and will be a fine accompaniment to burgers, barbecue and grilled steaks.
Roger Protz is the author of Complete Guide to World Beer and 300 Beers to Try Before You Die. He is a respected beer authority and editor of the CAMRA Good Beer Guide.
Internationally recognized brewer and expert on traditional beer, Garrett Oliver is the brewmaster of the Brooklyn Brewery and the author of The Brewmaster's Table.
