For New Glarus, Scarcity Builds a Powerful Brand
When Deb Carey pulled Spotted Cow out of bar coolers and off shelves in Chicago in 2002, distributors told her she was crushing her upstart Wisconsin brewery. Twelve years later, her beer may be as popular as ever in the Windy City, even if you have to drive an hour north to find it.
“Distributors and retailers said I was stupid, that I was going to kill my brewery,” says Carey, the outspoken founder of New Glarus Brewing Co. in New Glarus, Wisconsin. Carey opened the brewery in 1993 with her husband, Dan, as brewmaster, and it grew rapidly through the 1990s. New Glarus began distributing in Chicago in 2000, but by 2002, Carey was growing tired of weekly trips to Chicago that had her waking at 3 a.m. to trek to the city and hawk her beers, returning just in time to kiss her young daughters goodnight. But her decision to pull out of a market responsible for 15 percent of her sales volume wasn’t just about family.
“I hated driving down there, because everyone was on the take,” she says. “To put your beer on tap, everyone expected something for free. I can’t sell you a keg, make $10 on it and then give you $100 in product for free. I said screw this and pulled my beer out. We were so small at the time, maybe 15,000 barrels, that I thought, ‘Who’s even going to notice?’ ”
A lot of people did.
Illinois beer lovers were distraught, and two distributors threatened her with lawsuits for breach of contract and told her not to come crawling back to them when her brand died without distribution in the city (because New Glarus pulled out of the state, Carey says the distributors had no grounds to sue). What they didn’t account for was the loyalty to the great farmhouse ale with the funny name.
One of the first things cheeseheads learn when they move to Chicago is that they have a new responsibility. When you go home to the Dairyland, you are expected to return with some Spotted Cow, Fat Squirrel or Moon Man from New Glarus. A six-pack will do; a case is preferred.
In this writer’s case, I was asked about Spotted Cow in my first job interview in the city. I’m fairly certain that the fact that I promised to bring some back several times a year gave me a leg up on other applicants. But Chicago isn’t the only place that still clamors for New Glarus.
Patrick Campbell, an investment adviser from Iowa City, Iowa, was introduced to New Glarus through friends from Wisconsin.
“Any time someone goes up to that area to visit family or other reasons, I typically request that they bring back Spotted Cow,” he says. “I was introduced to it by friends, and now it’s tradition.”
Tavern owners have been known to push legal limits to satisfy customers’ thirst for Spotted Cow. In 2015, a Minnesota bar was cited for illegally selling Spotted Cow, as was a bar on New York City’s upper east side in 2009. In both states, it is illegal to transport or import alcoholic beverages into the state for purposes of resale without a proper license.
Undoubtedly the most popular stop for New Glarus “smugglers” is Mars Cheese Castle, a Wisconsin cheese, beer and sausage emporium located off I-94 in Kenosha, about 9 miles from the Illinois border. It’s one of the last stops before those returning from vacations to Door County peninsula or north woods cross the state line, and co-owner and general manager Tyson Wehrmeister says it’s not unusual to see people loading five or six cases of New Glarus beer in their car.
“We are the No. 1 independent retailer for New Glarus,” Wehrmeister says. “When I first tried Spotted Cow in 2004, I told my Dad I was going to bring in 10 cases. He said we’d be sitting on it for a month. We ended up selling out in a day. Sometimes today we get tourists on both sides of their trip. They stock up on their way north, then reload on the way south.”
Wehrmeister makes a point of getting the latest small-batch offerings that Dan Carey creates, and his Illinois customers love him for it. “I’d say 75-80 percent of our sales are to people from the Chicago area,” he says.
While there’s no way to know exactly how much of New Glarus’ sales go to those in Wisconsin’s southern neighbor, it may well be more now than it was when the beer was sold in Illinois. Carey says marketing was never a part of the equation when she decided to leave Illinois behind, but acknowledges that product scarcity has helped build her brand.
“I think, inadvertently, it has been a good marketing decision,” she says. “Scarcity did help. Whenever you make a decision like that, you have to be willing to live with the consequences. I always say you have to get comfortable living with fear. To pull out and be faced with the possibility of lawsuits from wholesalers wasn’t fun, but I felt like it was the thing that would save our sanity.”
As for a return to Illinois, Carey won’t rule it out, but says it’s not in the works.
“We’re growing 20 percent a year; that’s all we can handle,” she says. “There’s still a lot of room to sell beer in Wisconsin, and it’s not like they don’t have great beer in Chicago. We’re happy brewing world-class beer for our friends in Wisconsin.”
Myles Dannhausen is a freelance writer from Chicago. He “smuggles” a case of New Glarus beer for friends into Illinois at the end of most visits to his native Wisconsin.
It’s not just Chicagoans that road trip for New Glarus beer. I’ve done it from Nashville and I know a guy from Alabama that does it too. I came back with a Corolla fully loaded. The fruit beers are popular here in Tennessee.
The fruit Beers are amazing!! I’ve had it as far south as Florida before! I wish we could get it regularly down here!!
Cheers! ???
It’s fun to get “contraband” beer from Wisconsin to bring home from behind the “cheddar curtain”. New Glarus beers are great and quality is not sacrificed in order to distribute huge quantities of it! Well worth a stop at the Mars Cheese Castle to pick some up when heading back south from Milwaukee.
Yep, when I head South from Wisconsin it’s with plenty of New Glarus (and a case or 2 of Leinie’s Big Butt Doppelboch ale if it’s in season). And I love to stop ‘n’ shop at Mars Cheese Castle.
I live in SC but became familiar with their beer visiting family in WI. It’s very good beer and I’d ship it in if I could. Very frustrating that they only sell in WI but if I get a chance I’ll load up the vehicle and bring back as much as possible – no sharing.
Every trip to Wisconsin doubles as a covert mission to smuggle New Glarus beer across the border (OK, state line). Beyond Spotted Cow, there’s beers like Dancing Man Wheat, Staghorn, Cabin Fever, Road Slush – and the entire Thumbprint series. In Illinois, friends don’t let friends go to Wisconsin without bringing back a trunk of New Glarus beer (and cheese curds)
Love Dancing Man!!!
Signed COW-RUNNER.
I know a guy who drives up every fall from Atlanta GA to bring back 20-30 cases. He judges his good friends to be “cowable” and the rest get plain old bud.
Made several trips from Des Moines as well!
I drive 3 1/2 hours one way from Lincoln, Illinois to get a keg and assorted bottled NG. Worth the time for sure. It’s been my favorite brewery for over 20 years. FAT SQUIRREL is what I have on draught right now.
I would make a suggestion to those of you who buy it while you are here. If you a further north of Kenosha County, buy NG at Discount Liquors, Ottos, or Rays. Save some money. If you do have to buy it in Kenosha, buy it at Woodmans. Also, Costco has a good price in a case of Cow (there is a Costco in Kenoshas now). I noticed that retailers charge a premium near the border.
Fortunate to live 30 minutes from Wis.in Minnesota. Makes for a quick trip to Hudson.
Oh yes, great road trip. And brings Illinois dollars back home to Wisconsin. We go up a lot more to brewery and hit the Piggly Wiggly in Monroe too. And great character in the Casey’s for not giving in. Proud of them. I’ve put on Facebook “In New Glarus and friends text “Bring me a Spotted Cow 6 pack.
CAREY’S not Casey’s. Dog gone spellchecker
The cheapest price ive found for NG is at Wisco Woodmans locations or WalMarts. Lowest price i saw in 2015 was 7.49 a sixer, thumbprints higher.
Here in Montana Friends and family look forward to a 6 pack of New Glarus beer whenever someone returns from Wisconsin.
Whenever I’m lucky enough to travel to Madison for business, I always leave room in my case to bring a couple of six packs back to the UK! New glarus introduced me to the concept of a black ipa which happily some of my local breweries now make occasionally. I know that several bars in my hometown of Bradford, west Yorkshire, would be delighted to stock new glarus if they ever decide to export it… I won’t be holding my breath though!
On my way to a party in Wisconsin that I’m hosting. Guess what kind of beer engr we’re serving?
Great article. Thanks for sharing.
People are missing the boat if they only seek out Spotted Cow. They have some of the best Fruit beers in the country as well as a top rated Imperial IPA called Scream. Their seasonals and special releases are highly sought after by craft beer fans from San Diego to Bangor Maine.