Sampling Saison

By K. Florian Klemp Published September 2003, Volume 24, Number 4
Saison Dupont
La Foret
Fantôme
Saison de Silly

The French word for season, saison, has become a stylistic designation to distinguish a group of beers from Wallonia, the French-speaking region of Belgium. Today, these historically seasonal ales are brewed year-round. Saisons present a complex character that is both aggressive and subtle. Unmistakably Belgian and unequivocally rustic, they beckon exploration.

Saison as we know it today is quite true to its roots, retaining its character as a rustic, unpretentious and somewhat unruly brew.

Brewing in Wallonia

Belgium is divided into two roughly equal regions along an east-west boundary. Flanders comprises the northern half, and Wallonia, the southern half. Wallonia boasts some world-class breweries, including three of the famous Trappist operations: Orval, Rochefort, and Chimay. Less famous are the secular farmhouse breweries that dot the Wallonian countryside. Like the monastic breweries, they are down to earth, individualistic and quite dedicated to local brewing traditions. They are also responsible for the sole purely Wallonian beer style, saison.

Saison is a relatively old style of beer, not so much for the usual stylistic guidelines like appearance and strength, but for the seasonal constraints under which it was produced. Before refrigeration, Belgian brewers had to brew in cold or cool seasons, as brewing during warm months invited too many inconsistencies and blemished batches. The beer was then stored for the warmer months.

Being brewed on a seasonal basis, these beers, which became known as saison, had to be within a specific strength range. Too strong, and they wouldn’t be a decent thirst quencher. Too weak, they wouldn’t hold up during the storage period. Moderate to medium-strong became the default potency. And, similar to other ales, like IPA, that had to endure prolonged storage, saisons were hopped liberally to combat contamination and add stability.

K. Florian Klemp is a research analyst at Duke University in Durham, NC, and an award-winning homebrewer.
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Tasting Notes

  • Saison Dupont

    From the class Wallonian brewery, Brasserie Dupont in Tourpes, Hainaut, it is the quintessential saison. Rich gold in color, Saison Dupont pours with a creamy, white, lingering head that presents an aromatic, wonderfully fresh hop bouquet. The flavor has a stiff dose of bittering hops, a light cellar character, and a grainy finish. Bottle conditioned, of course; as good as it gets.

    ABV: 6.5%
  • La Foret

    Also brewed by Dupont, it is the exported, 100-percent organic version, exhibiting the same resinous hop aroma that Saison Dupont features, with a little more mustiness in flavor and bouquet. Made with filtered artesian water, it has a bold bitterness and a soft malty background.

    ABV: 7.5%
  • Fantôme

    Brewed in Soy, Luxembourg province, by the Brasserie Fantôme, it’s named for a haunting spirit that inhabits some local chateau ruins. Brewed with pilsner malt, hopped with Goldings and Hallertau, and accented with special “mysterious” ingredients, two fruit juices and two herbs. A complex fruit and spice aroma with notes of watermelon, peach, apple, and anise. The flavor features light maltiness and a reserved horse-blanket note.

    ABV: 8.0%
  • Saison de Silly

    From the Brasserie de Silly in Hainaut, this is one of the darkest of the saisons. It has a reddish-amber color and is slightly sweet and fruity with a modest caramel finish, reminiscent of honey as the beer warms. Dry and earthy, light in body, and very refreshing. The balancing hop dose is from Kent Goldings and Hallertau varieties, and provides a nice soft bitterness.

    ABV: 5.0%