The Girl Next Door

By Rob Haiber Published September 2001, Volume 22, Number 4
Genesee Cream Ale
Little Kings Cream Ale
Colorado Stream Ale
Anchor Steam Beer

A few issues back, I wrote about some tasty blonde ale styles. This time the assignment is two authentic American styles.

Cream Ale and California common, though, stand alone as original US styles.

For readers in their 20s or 30s: way back at the dawn of the current craft brewing age, the mid-1970s, there were but two native US beer styles, the blonde cream ale and a copper-colored style that used to be called “steam beer.” For legal reasons, the latter is now called California common beer, although that term does not appear on the label.

Today, there are more than a few all-American, homegrown beer styles produced by innovative brewers. Most of these styles developed out of a very simple process: take a recipe for an established style—say, wheat beer—do something to it, and see what happens. If enough happened, a new, American version of an old style was born.

Cream ale and California common, though, stand alone as original US styles. They are certainly not exotic like the Belgian lambic, enormous like barley wine, or full of character like dry stout. They are like Kristina Abernathy, the southern blonde Weather Channel honey, not Liz Hurley, the English model and actress with a wild streak as long as the Mississippi.

Don’t get me wrong. The world needs Liz Hurleys to keep life interesting and stir the blood. But, men, if you have nice, respectable, God-fearing parents, whom would you choose to bring home to meet them? The foreign, dark-haired, ultra-sexy Liz or the cute all-American beauty with stable, marrying qualities, Kristina?

That’s the sort of beers these are—like the pretty girl next door.

Cream ale and California common are worthy alternatives to some everyday drinking beers. You could substitute cream ale for standard and premium American lager, and California common for other copper-colored ales and lagers.

Cream ale is categorized an ale hybrid; and California common, a lager hybrid.

Rob Haiber is an American Homebrewers Association certified beer judge, homebrewer and beer writer.
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Tasting Notes

  • Genesee Cream Ale

    Brilliant, medium yellow; throws a big, creamy white head of good duration. No off odors; more body than standard American lager; surprisingly aggressive nose that explodes out of the glass. Hoppy and earthy notes more pleasant than expected for the style; quite fizzy, lively like a lager. Nice hop/malt balance in the finish, but some corn comes through, especially as it warms. Initial hop character grows slightly, levels off, then vanishes, leaving a dry palate with some residual sweetness. It been years since I had a Genny and this has more character than I recall, and more character than bog-standard lager against which it competes.

    ABV: 5.1%
  • Little Kings Cream Ale

    I had a slightly old bottle of this laying about, but thought it best that I get a fresh sample. I’m glad I did, as the brewery told me that this was recently reformulated to bring it back in line with the original. This new version is much improved. Brilliant medium yellow; creamy white head of moderate duration; no off odors; good, firm body for style; much more aggressive nose than the previous version. Good carbonation, but not over the top. Hops/malt balance is neutral; neither dominates on the palate or on the finish. There’s a white pepper, hot feel to the finish; more mouthfeel, at the upper rear of the palate, than a taste, which is interesting. The taste lingers in a leisurely sort of way, then slowly fades, with a bit of residual sweetness.

    ABV: 5.5%
  • Colorado Stream Ale

    In honor of the Colorado Avalanche winning the Stanley Cup from the NJ Devils, I christen this beer “Number 77, Raymond Bourque” after the Avs’ star defense man who, after 22 years in the NHL, finally raised the Cup over his head. Both are rock-solid, mature, and display flashes of offensive brilliance. Brilliant copper; creamy ecru head of moderate duration; no off odors; firm-bodied malt base; delicate hop aromas that gain character as the beer warms. Not overly carbonated, with pleasant fizziness on the tongue. Initial malt body yields without interruption to a pleasant hoppiness. Initial hop assertiveness mellows to a lovely dry finish. A stellar beer sure to delight all but the most fanatical hop lovers.

  • Anchor Steam Beer

    Brilliant copper; big creamy, ecru head of long duration; firm-bodied based on malt. Lovely hops over soft malt on the nose, with some faint earthy notes, which improve as the beer warms. Good, pleasant carbonation on the tongue. Initial fine hop notes on the palate carry right through to a long, pleasant finish; hoppy bitterness with no spikes from start to finish. The original, and still the standard against which others are judged. Best served at ale or cellar temperatures.

    ABV: 4.9%

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