All About Beer Magazine

Dogfish Head‘s tribute to the legendary Miles Davis recording Bitches Brew is comprised of three “threads” of imperial stout with muscavado sugar and one thread of honey beer with gesho root. In Ethiopia, a honey beer – actually a mead – known as tej is flavored with stems of the aromatic gesho plant, which to me makes one of the most interesting meads. The imperial stout accounts for the opaque black appearance, topped with a tan head, with the honey beer making its entrance later. The aroma is full of dried fruits, cherries, molasses and toffee. The flavor opens with burnt caramel, roasted grain and raisins. It is slightly astringent, almost tannic, with black licorice notes – the grown up, medicinal kind, not the sweet kid candy – loads of bitter bakers chocolate and a tart/sour twist in the finish. Does the gesho account for all the bitterness? The IBUs are low, at least for a beer of this considerable strength, but there is a rooty bitterness that balances the honey and sugar. Like the jazz fusion album, Bitches Brew is an acquired taste, but one that might be acquired pretty easily. The notes suggest it would go well with chili or spicy chicken curry, which I don’t doubt. But I’d love to stay on the Ethiopian motif and savor this black brew with the intense spiced stew wat, made with beef or goat.