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Buyer's Guide for Beer Lovers

British and North American Ales

The Lords of the Ales: A Powerful Onslaught of Ales from the Two Towers of North America and Great Britain

ESB

Bitter is an English specialty, and very much an English term, generally denoting the standard ale―the “session” beer―in an English brewer’s range. They are characterized by a fruitiness, light-to-medium body and an accent on hop aromas more than hop bitters. Colors range from golden to copper. Despite the name, they are not particularly bitter. Indeed, British-brewed bitters will often be less bitter than U.S. craft-brewed amber ales. A fuller-bodied bitter is labeled as “Extra Special Bitter” (ESB). These weightier versions of bitter often stand up better to the rigors of travel overseas than the lower gravity standard versions. An important element of faithful bitters is the use of English yeast cultures in fermentation. These impart a fruity, mildly estery character that should be noted in examples of the style. Bitters are now widely emulated in North America, sometimes with domestically grown hops, imparting a rather more assertive character than seen in traditional English bitters.

Interpreting the 100-point Scale

Consumers can translate the point score to the following quality bands:

Point Range Quality Band
96-100 points Platinum
90-95 points Gold
85-90 points Silver
80-84 points Bronze
Less than 80 Not Recommended
Legend
  • = Brewpub
  • ABV = Alcohol by volume
  • Date denotes the date on which the beer was tasted

96 Fuller’s Original ESB, Fuller’s Griffin Brewery (England). 5.9% ABV (3/11)
Bright amber color. Aromas of buttery caramelized dried fruits, rye flour and honeyed dark raisin baguette with a silky, dry-yet-fruity medium body and a smooth, grilled root vegetable, mild coffee and sautéed escarole-like hop finish. A wonderfully balanced ESB that is world class.

88 Extra ESB, Breckenridge Brewery (CO). 7.8% ABV (3/10)
Dark copper brown color. Molasses, apple cider vinegar, sour cherry yogurt and baker chocolate aromas and flavors with a smooth creamy, dryish medium body and a tangy, roasted nut, kalamata olive and sour citrus finish. Intriguing. Pair with game BBQ.

88 Bachelor ESB, Deschutes Brewery (OR). 5.3% ABV (3/10)
Deep amber color. Bold raw honey, cocoa, roasted corn and baked peach chutney aromas follow through on a supple entry to a dryish medium body with brown sugar, sautéed kale and mint notes. Finishes with a long, tangy, slightly charred citrus and nut finish.

87 Bitter Cold ESB, Goose Island Beer Co. (IL). 5% ABV (3/11)
Bright amber color. Roasted chestnut, fig paste, cocoa and pumpernickel toast aromas with a supple, soft, dryish medium body and a very smooth, mocha cream and jicama-accented finish with mild grassy hops.

86 Ice Pick Ale, Silverton Brewery (CO). 6.8% ABV (3/11)
Reddish copper color. Bright aromas of buttery frosted peach Danish and a dash of grapefruit marmalade with a supple, finely carbonated dryish medium-to-full body and a nice mélange of grilled turnip and carrot, cocoa powder and citrus zest and mesclun-like hops. Tasty.

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