Brown’s Oatmeal Stout

If you’re looking for a really nice oatmeal stout, look no further than Brown’s. A solid interpretation of a traditional English-style oatmeal stout, this beer isn’t going to knock anybody’s socks off if they are looking for something big, new and different. But if you seek a terrific partner for culinary pursuits, this canned beauty might be a great go-to companion. Oats lend a richness that entices you to think the beer is higher in alcohol than it really is, while notes of high cacao chocolate and a soft carbonation help it go down almost too easily.

Lisa Morrison has been writing about beer for nearly 20 years. She also owns Belmont Station, a well-known bottle shop and taproom in Portland, Oregon.

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The can opens with a sharp pop, and I listen for the squeal of a widget, but there is none. The beige foam rises but doesn’t last long. Frame it against a cloudy day, and no light gets through. The aroma is bready, with a nice high-toned roast and delicate fruit. Bitterness is dead center of the road, moderately balanced on a clean dry palate. It rides out crispy. Exceedingly well done and very drinkable; I counsel oysters.

Garrett Oliver is the brewmaster of The Brooklyn Brewery, the editor-in-chief of The Oxford Companion to Beer, the author of The Brewmaster's Table and the veteran host of more than 900 beer dinners in 15 countries.

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