Pittsburgh’s Iron City Lights

By Paul Ruschmann and Maryanne Nasiatka Published July 2006, Volume 27, Number 3

Three Rivers. The Steel Curtain. Heinz ketchup. Pete Flaherty. And now, Da Bus…

“Soon we found ourselves talking to them about their selection, other places to get great brew, and new beers to be on the lookout for. Their policy: ‘We try to be the first to have it and the first not to have it.’”

But would you think of beer if someone yelled out “Pittsburgh”? We were pleasantly surprised recently when we visited the Iron City on a trip across Pennsylvania.

(Maryanne Nasiatka)

Da Burgh’s mountainous, winding streets make following two-dimensional maps a challenge. You turn onto what you think is the right street and—all of a sudden—you’re 200 feet above it. But once you get the lay of the land, you’ll find neighborhoods filled with ethnic charm, which means they’re also brimming with tasty food and interesting places to quaff a good brew.

A Carnivore’s Delight

Our first stop was Fat Head’s Saloon (1805 East Carson St.) in the South Side Flats district. You can see and feel this establishment’s character as you walk in. Pittsburgh is a union town, and one of Fat Head’s themes is Local 1807, which also happens to be the street address of one of the buildings. It’s a small place with colorful regulars sitting at the bar and a down-to-earth staff serving them. Brick walls dubbed “Fat Head’s Global” display photos of fans posing in places such as the Alamo, the middle of Iraq, and Hell, MI.

Fat Head’s sports more than 40 taps, with a strong selection of microbrewed beer from around the country. The saloon also had a handpump. Rogue’s Mocha Porter was available the day we visited. (Rogue also brews Fat Head’s house ale.) Here you’ll find the beer menu posted on wooden slats arranged vertically behind the bar.

The food is simple, and the portions are hefty. “Headwiches”—really, really big sandwiches with names like “Artery Clogger” and “Bay of Pigs”—are the specialty of the house. The menu also includes everything from bar snacks to burgers to steaks and ribs.

Pennsylvania’s laws regulating retail beer sales can be frustrating to visitors, since beer is sold in case lots by distributors. Luckily, bars can sell six-packs “to go.” Fat Head’s obliges its customers by keeping an upstairs cooler stocked with a wide selection of bottled beer. An easy-to-spot blackboard lists new arrivals, and growlers to go are also available.

Paul Ruschmann is a writer, editor and researcher; Maryanne Nasiatka is a writer and photographer. They travel as much as their budget permits, visiting many of the places where great beer is brewed and enjoyed.
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