The Spirit of Brown
Today, brown ales in England are very much like the Newcastle blueprint, though some in the south are a bit sweeter and darker. In the United States, where the craft brewing inclination is to “Americanize” the classic styles, a lot of brown ales are made heftier, hopped more aggressively ( with American hops of course ), or both. On the other hand, given the proclivity for tradition, many brewers in the US have maintained the modesty that is manifested in classic English brown ale.
As with any beer, superior base malt is imperative, but it is the deft employment of specialty malt that makes a great brown ale. Historically, pale ale malt would have been augmented with a measure of brown malt, and later, some caramel malt. Brown malt is a spirited grist component, as it has a very earthy element, slender roastiness, as well as a full reddish hue. Some might consider it a bit coarse if used too extensively, but just as many find it appealing: 10 to 20% of it in a grain bill is very noticeable. The resurgence of historical brews has spurred maltsters in England to produce more brown malt, as even American brewers ( and homebrewers ) are keen to add that bit of authenticity. It is still a commonly used malt in England.
More often than not, though, caramel and chocolate malt are used to achieve the deep amber to mahogany color. Each of these malts contribute the essential flavors. The synergy is a soft toffee character unique to a well-made brown. Few beer styles showcase the art of blending just a few well-selected malts without going over the top. Sometimes, the liberal use of dark malt blurs the line between brown ale and porter, especially those brewed with brown malt. These versions may in fact be very close to historical porters, brewed before the advent of black malt. Brown ales are, in fact, somewhat diversely interpretive, showing a continuum of plentiful caramel, rich chocolate, and soft roast.
True-to-style English brown ales are well-balanced with respect to hops. Whether it is brewed in Britain or the U.S., East Kent Golding or Fuggles would suit a classic version. Hops should be noticeable, but not overshadow the engaging, subtle sweetness of the malt. Americanized interpretations have as their own signature a somewhat forceful hop character, both in bittering and aromatic additions. These would be hopped on par with an American amber or pale ale, with noticeable floral, citrus, and pine notes. This is a tricky proposition, as dark malts don’t always handle those catty hops well.
English yeast will provide the most character, and give that earthy, mineral character that brown ale so richly displays: this is, after all, a beer of everyman, with a lot of substance packed into an understated package, to be enjoyed over several hours. Most are around 5% ABV, but American versions often push towards 6%. And though many don’t fit snugly into the classic mold, there are many well-balanced, superbly nuanced ones to be found. Of course, one is increasingly likely to encounter imperial and double brown ale these days, but those deserve a separate digest.
Just as a skilled chef can make a remarkable dish with few ingredients, so can a brewer craft a simple, contemplative beer in the same manner. Brown ale is such, and those that appreciate them are looking for nothing more than straightforward, unadorned enjoyment. Sometimes, that is the toughest challenge. Often, rather ironically, it is the easiest to find.
