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Beer Talk
Starobrno Czech Premium Lager
Published July 2007, Volume 28, Number 3
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Charles Finkel
The biggest brand in Prague. Bright yellow, with golden overtones, it is capped by a solid head of miniscule bubbles — beautiful. The nose is slightly bread-like with little hint of hops. Highly effervescent, it is soft and round on the palate, with good rich malty flavors, more like an export than a pils. That’s good because it couldn’t by Czech law be called a pilsner, even if it were. We enjoyed it with an appetizer of boiled organic beef bones stuffed with marrow followed by tea smoked duck.
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Michael Jackson
The Czechs’ most famous breweries, and its principal hop gardens, are in Bohemia, but its finest malting barley grows in Moravia. The golden lagers of the two states are very similar in character. This one is from a mainstream brewery in Moravia’s main city, Brno. It has a deep gold color and a herbal hop aroma, but not as distinctly flowery as I have tasted on its home ground. This sample seemed rather tired. The firm, rounded body is as I remember, but the malty, spicy sweetness seems to have receded. A hint of ginger-like spiciness does survive.
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Stan Hieronymus
Despite the star in its name, not a beer designed to shine so much as to complement, be it conversation or a meal. Its aroma features noticeable malt (presumably Moravian) sweetness and bright floral hops, turning more bready/grainy in the middle with grassy notes evoking an impression of wet hay. Gentle, yet firm, bitterness lasts beyond the not-quite-dry finish. Clearly best when fresh — I let a bottle sit warm for a couple days and it fell quickly out of tune.
