And to see how pub grub has left its disappointing reputation behind, here is a menu from the Fox & Barrel, Cotebrook, Tarporley, Cheshire, Pub of the Year, in a competition run by the Morning Advertiser, newspaper of the pub trade:
Starters:
Grilled goat’s cheese on plum tomatoes and an onion platter, topped with Parma ham and basil oil
Crouton of toasted brioche, topped with smoked chicken and a pear chutney, with a hazelnut and grain mustard dressing
Main courses:
Baked fillet of cod, minestrone of summer vegetables and potatoes
Wild mushrooms and smoked garlic risotto with a roasted walnut, chicory and apple salad
Breast of duck cooked pink, coated with a lime, ginger, chili, lemongrass and coriander glaze, served with vegetables
Prime rib-eye steak with a rich port sauce, topped with melted stilton
Desserts:
Crème brulee
Meringue filled with hazelnut cream and raspberries
Crumbly toffee and apple tart
Susan Nowak
Susan Nowak is the editor of CAMRA's guide to Good Pub Food, now in its fifth edition, and author of The Beer Cook Book (Faber & Faber).
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