91 Double White Belgian Style Ale, River Horse Brewery (NJ). 7.5% ABV (6/08)
Cloudy pale amber color. Orange soufflé, caramel-drizzled dried apricot and zesty coriander aromas follow though on a round, supple entry to a fruity medium-to-full body with a great interplay of sweet spice and deep dried fruit flavors. Finishes with a long, tangy orange-peach marmalade, wet grain and praline fade. Delicious and dangerously drinkable.

90 Blanche de Chambly, Unibroue (Canada). 5% ABV (6/09)
Hazy golden color with a white blanket. Spice, orange custard and egg-washed brioche aromas follow through smooth, fluffy entry to a dry-yet-fruity medium body with nice depth and a mellow texture. Finishes with lemon, mint and praline notes. Tasty.

89 Norwegian Frolic Wit Beer, Grumpy Troll Brewery (WI). 4.8% ABV (6/07) %{Brewpub}
Milky orange amber color with a lacy head. Vibrant orange cake and tapioca aromas are inviting and follow though to a rich frothy entry with a fruity medium-full body of orange cake, delicate spice and toasted meringue flavors. Finishes with a long fruit, citrus peel and honey fade. Thoroughly delicious, rich and very well balanced. Well done!

89 Summer Frog Witbier, Issaquah Brewhouse (OR). 5.7% ABV (6/08)
Slightly hazy amber color. Sweet potato, peach pie crust and baking spice aromas follow through on a buoyant, frothy entry to a dry-yet-fruity medium with zesty accents of coriander and cinnamon bark. Finishes with a spicy toffee, shredded wheat and honeyed orange fade.

88 Scandia Ale, Summit Brewing Co. (MN). 4.8% ABV (6/07)
Cloudy golden amber color. Vibrant, almost piney, aromas of cardamom and coriander overlay a bed of honeyed banana-orange bread. A frothy entry leads to a crisp, dryish, medium-to-full body of vibrant spices, citrus peels and toasted caraway zucchini bread flavors. Finishes with a cleansing and lingering dried herb and spice fade. Very interesting in style and flavor with a ton of refreshment. Serve with Thai food.

88 White Frog Ale, Issaquah Brewhouse (OR). 5.7% ABV (6/09)
Aromas of honey-baked ham, candied ginger and cinnamon toast follow through on a round, silky entry to a dryish medium body with pine, lemon and mint nuances. Finishes with a delicate, coriander and mineral-kissed finish. Nice and gentle.

87 Blanche De Namur Witbier, Brasserie Du Bocq (Belgium). 4.5% ABV (6/07)
Hazy yellow straw color. Coriander, anise and lemon zest tart aromas. A frothy entry leads to a fruity medium-to-full body of floral bath talc, dried citrus peels, clover honey and rich spice flavors. finishes with a creamy and zesty citrus custard, buttered nuts, minty bath soap and spice fade.

85 Ommegang Witte, Brewery Ommegang (NY). 5.1% ABV (6/08)
Lightly hazy yellow gold color. Lemon-orange bread, honeyed oat and delicate spice aromas. A round entry leads to a dryish medium-to-full body of tangy honeyed lemon and orange peels, oatmeal, wet clay and faint coriander flavors. Finishes with a citrus and bitter herb, mossy earth fade. An earthy, zesty quaffer.

84 Wit, Bastone Brewery (MI). 5.6% ABV (6/07)
Very hazy sunny amber color. Bright coriander and orange peel aromas. A spritzy entry leads to a tangy medium body of sweet candied citrus, coriander, clove and pine sap flavors. Finishes with a sweet citrus and spice fade. A pleasant fruity quaffer.

84 Abbaye De Saint Martin Organic White Beer, Brasserie De Brunehaut (Belgium). 5% ABV (5/07)
Hazy yellow golden color. Lemon custard, lime zest and delicate spice mélange aromas. A frothy entry leads to a dryish medium body of nuts, baked oranges and slightly phenolic mineral flavors. Finishes with a metallic ore dust, salt and dried lemon fade.

84 Mygarden Wit, Gaslight Brewery (NJ). 5.1% ABV (6/07)
Almost clear golden amber color. Caramelized nuts, toasted pumpernickel, pine and orange marmalade aromas. A supple, round entry leads to a dryish medium body of clover honeyed dark toast, coriander and roasted nut flavors. Finishes with a fruity, wheat toast, orange zest and butter fade.

84 Wheat Ale, Upland Brewing (IN). 4.6% ABV (6/09)
Yellow color with a light mousse. Vibrant aromas of warm bread pudding, lemon curd and pine follow through on a round entry to a dryish medium body with lots of wintergreen and juniper notes and a hint of Mr. Clean. Finishes with a lemon custard Danish-like fade. Different.

84 Brunehaut Bio Blanche, Brasserie de Brunehaut (Belgium). 5% ABV (6/09)
Hazy straw yellow color. Aromas of Ivory soap box, crabapple and waxy lemon follow through on a mild entry to a dryish light-to-medium body with green pear skin and old spice notes. Finishes with a quick, dusty fade.

83 Great White Wit, Bastone Brewery (MI). 5.25% ABV (6/07) %{Brewpub}
Cloudy golden amber color. Pork rind, mint leaf and citrusy detergent aromas. A brisk entry leads to a slightly flat medium body of brown sugar, brown butter and baked citrus tart flavors with a quick, buttery spice finish. Curious.

Let’s start with the White Ales. A classic example hailing from Canada: Unibroue’s Blanche de Chambly (90 points) is a benchmark for the style. Frothy and quenching with a finish that will keep you coming back, it is an excellent beer to session with after some good old-fashioned manual labor. If you were planning on having a snack with this one, try some goat’s cheese. Take it a step further with brown butter-seared scallops. Another notable entry would be the Issaquah Brewhouse White Frog Ale (88 points). Try some ginger-spiced shrimp with this one.

Hefeweizen is always welcome during the warmer months and you’re sure to see many fans quaffing tall glasses of this ale into the warmth of early fall. The low hop content and moderate alcohol make it very drinkable and the same characteristics make it an excellent match with lighter fair, such as seafood or chicken.

Privatebrauerei Aying produces their Bräu-Weisse (97 points). If you are new to the style, this is an excellent example to try. If you want to go the traditional route, pair this brew with some warm pretzels and weisswurst. Feeling experimental? Grill up some fatty fish and garnish with capers and lemon slices. This is a great way to refuel and replenish the system. Other excellent examples of the style included Grieskirchner Weisse (91 points), Brooklyn’s Brooklyner Weisse (89 points), and Burleigh Brewing Co.’s Burleigh Hefeweizen (85 points)―all excellent summer refreshers.

Flavored wheat ales are common in the market these days, with a myriad of flavors to be found. Samuel Adams Blackberry Wit (90 points) is a fun one. Think berry farm-fresh flavors with a clean finish, a great brew to treat yourself to after the meal, or just to whet your whistle. Breckenridge’s Agave Wheat Ale (90 points) was definitely an intriguing entry, well–balanced and quenching. Some fish tacos are in order here. Lastly, Maui Brewing’s Mana Wheat (86 points) is one to seek out; it’s brewed with Maui Gold pineapple and highly refreshing. Try this one with some roast pork sandwiches.

Hope this helps inspire some creative ways to reward your buddies for their hard work. Thanks again to all of the participation breweries and judges for their efforts. One last note, always lift with your legs! Cheers!

In our Hefeweizen category, the brews that stood out included Ayinger Bräu-Weisse (97 points), Brau Fransikaner Hefe-Weisse (93 points), and Plank Bavarian Hefeweizen (92 points). Great benchmark brews for the style. If you are new to hefeweizens and are interested in trying prime examples, these will fit the bill perfectly. The cleansing properties of hefeweizens make them excellent for pairing with a myriad of foods. For a traditional spin, try with weiss wurst. If you’re looking for something new, a goat cheese tart or salad of micro greens, poached egg and bacon dressing will make an for an excellent experience.

Obviously, each brewery is going to interpret styles differently and the final product will carry house influences and characteristics. This is very evident in the Wheat Ale category. Some filtered and bright as day, some cloudy as a typical hefe, from one brewery to the next, wheat ales carry a lot of diversity. These properties make them interesting to flight up at a home tasting/food pairing with friends. I like to pair wheat ales with grilled fowl or fish in some cases, as long as the brew isn’t too aggressively hopped. Simple preparations usually work best, allowing the flavors of the beer to mingle with whatever you decide to pair. It’s really a matter of personal taste in most cases.

The stand-out brews that we tasted included Stevens Point Horizon Wheat (90 points), the Issaquah Brewhouse Bullfrog Wheat (89 points), and a unique brew from Marin Brewing Co., Star Brew Triple Wheat (88 points). This fine beverage carried the characteristics of a wheat wine and would be a great partner with some heartier fare such as funky farmhouse cheeses, roasted game meats or try with some duck sausages for a decadent experience.

Next up, the White Ales, my personal favorite in the world of wheat beers. Quenching, spicy and very versatile with so many foods. If you make a habit of rewarding yourself with a beer after some yard work, try a wit bier instead of your usual “lawn mower” beer. You’ll be happily satiated in no time. When pairing with food, the options are endless and delicious. Seafood is my favorite, especially sushi. Wits will stand up to the wasabi with panache. Ceviche is perfect for a light but dynamic pairing. Crab cakes, fried sardines/smelt and shellfish all do wonders for the palate with a wit beer. Not a seafood fan? Try washing down a goat cheese omelet or grilled cheese sandwich with your favorite brewery’s wit and you’re sure to be pleased. A few excellent examples include Unibroue Blanche de Chambly (91 points), the River Horse Double White Belgian Style Ale (91 points) or the Brewery Ommegang Witte (85 points).

When quaffing a dunkel weisse or weizen bock, I find myself wanting heartier fare. Fire up the grill and throw on some spicy sausages or, if indoors, roasting a duck is always a fun experience and a great match for the richness of these darker wheat beers. Ayinger Ur-Weisse (95 points) and Bischoff Falken Steiner Ur-Schwarze (87 points) are fine examples in the Dunkel Weisse category. As far as the weizen bock, try a Plank Dunkler Weizenbock (89 points). I especially like to pair this brew with grilled short ribs: a little five-spice powder and a dash of soy and honey and you’re on your way to a perfect combo.

Last up, the flavored wheat category. Great aperitifs or ice-breakers for your guests. Or end the meal by pairing with your favorite creamy cheeses and fruit plate. Try starting or ending your next get-together with a sample of Unibroue Éphémére Apple (93 points), Marin Blueberry Wheat Ale (89 points), Samuel Adams Cherry Wheat (88 points), or Track Town Honey Orange Wheat from Eugene City Brewery (86 points). The beauty of these beers is the subtlety of the fruit flavor: not in the least bit cloying or saccharine sweet, just delicate and delicious.

So indoors or out, warm or cold weather, lay back and enjoy a well-crafted wheat beer and have yourself a hazy day.

Traditional Wit

Witbiers are another example of a style that nearly expired, but is now as popular as ever following an enthusiastic rebirth. Alternatively called bière blanche in French, wits share a history with many of the enduring Belgian beer styles: a product of monasteries developed as a regional specialty. They were an expression of that which was available in the area east of Brussels, including the city of Louvain and the village of Hoegaarden, in the farmlands of Brabant.

Blessed with sinfully rich soil and a feisty agrarian culture, the area was home to farmers who tended fields of barley, wheat and oats, all of which are utilized in traditional witbiers. There is mention of monastic witbier from as long ago as the 14th century in Belgium. The monks, and later secular brewers, retained the practice of adding spices to the kettle long after hops became the predominant form of flavoring. This is evident in today’s witbiers, though today they are of a more exotic nature. This is not terribly surprising, as some of the so-called “spice islands” were colonized in the late 16th and early 17th centuries, when Belgium was part of the Netherlands. Indigenous herbal gruit constituents gave way to foreign spices.

The city of Hoegaarden was so interested in protecting its unique product that a brewer’s guild was formed there in the 1700s. In fact, it was easily the dominant style of beer immediately east of Brussels, around Louvain and Hoegaarden as recently as the 18th century. The two municipalities were fierce competitors at the time, with Bière Blanche de Louvain being more popular than Blanche de Hougaerde. As there is no evidence that the Hoegaarden was an inferior product, Louvain witbier was likely able to promote its product more tenaciously because of its well-heeled status as a city brewery. This is not to say that Hoegaarden wasn’t a highly-respected brewery in its own right, as at least twenty breweries specializing in witbier were in operation there in the 19th century.

The 19th century, however, saw a change that would usher in the decline, and ultimately, the near-death of many regional brews, including witbier. The advent of pale brews, especially pale lager in Continental Europe, nudged many traditional, artistic brews aside. The clamor over the bright, golden beers was due in some part to novelty, but also to improved shipping and commerce. In other words, the world became smaller, and local fare seemed old-fashioned; the new products, exhilarating.

In Hoegaarden, this slow demise culminated in 1960, when finally, there were no witbiers being brewed. In fact, witbier was brewed in only a few places anywhere in Belgium by then. All but extinct, witbier had on its side one of the great proponents of craft beer in the past 40 years, and he was not about to let something so personally significant disappear so easily. His name is Pierre Celis, and his spunk and vitality are symbolized in the very beer he resurrected and without whom, we’d be drooling over memories of Belgian witbier.

Modern Wit and Wisdom

Pierre Celis grew up and worked in the area around Hoegaarden. Lamenting the loss of his cherished witbier, he decided to make his own on a commercial level. He purchased some used brewing equipment, fitted out a small brewery and by 1966, was producing. He named the brewery De Kluis (The Cloister ) in reverence to the roots of monastic witbier brewing. Through his efforts, quaint and anachronistic became popular, ironically not just because of its novelty, but also because it was a reversion to a more natural, less-refined product, something that had been in serious dearth at the time.

The popularity of Celis’ witbier spurred on others to produce their own, and by the mid-80s, many were being brewed in Belgium. Celis brought his expertise to Austin, TX, and with the same approach of using local ingredients as much as possible, founded the Celis Brewery in 1992. His influence can still be seen today across America and Canada, as a great proportion of microbreweries and brewpubs produce some version of a witbier.

A Witty Pose

What is it then, that defines a witbier? While the word itself literally means “white beer,” there are two attributes that are necessary in a formulation worthy of the name: the grist must contain up to 50 percent wheat, and it must have summary scent of spices.

These are dubbed white beers, and not wheat beers as the Germans designate their similar brews, because of the pale, almost milky glow of the brew. They are indeed turbid, and for more than one reason. First, the wheat is unmalted, leaving a bit of residual starch in the beer. Secondly, the high protein content of wheat naturally leaves a bit of precipitous haze in the finished product. Third, bottled offerings are usually bottle-conditioned, leaving a fair measure of yeast in suspension when poured

The under-modified, raw wheat is lighter in color even than malted wheat, and this is what contributes to the very pale, white-gold appearance. With wheat constituting about half of the grist, the remainder is a pale, continental pilsner type malt, usually grown in Germany or Belgium. American brewers might opt for a domestic two-row for their interpretations, a worthy substitute. At times, and traditionally, a small amount of oats is added, but usually not more than at five percent total. The manifestation of the raw wheat on the palate is a silky-smooth, soft mouthfeel; a playful tart and honeyish contrast; and noticeable fruitiness.

Of concomitant importance in a witbier is the use of spices. The predominant spice is always coriander in a classic witbier, and it should be obvious in the nose. Freshly ground, and added late to the kettle to retain its aroma, it should fairly burst from the glass.

The second most common spice addition is curaçao, or bitter, orange peel, which adds mysterious complexity to the brew. It is grown in Spain, Italy, and North Africa, and is characteristically herbal, reminiscent of chamomile rather than orange, and compliments the savory coriander well. More spices may be added, but traditionally in small amounts as sort of a background note. Some brewers are cryptic about their choices, but chamomile, anise, grains of paradise, peppercorns, ginger, or nearly anything similar could conceivably be used. The marriage of the spice blend, and the raw wheat is one made in heaven to the senses.

Hops are used at quite modest levels. Those that exhibit spicy and herbal notes (imagine that) like Saaz, Styrian Goldings, and East Kent Goldings are best as they blend deftly with the other nuances. Witbiers should pour with a copious, lingering head, due to the high proteinaceous wheat, and higher than average carbonation. This only adds to the wonderfully intricate bouquet, as the mousse dissipates and releases its perfume. Very modest at 4.5 to 5 percent ABV, witbiers are certainly a quenching session brew. They are at their prime when fairly young, as they should be consumed in their most spirited and vivacious aromatic condition.

While most of the common witbiers are offered year round, brewpubs will often concoct them for their summer repertoire. Be on the lookout for them. For summer refreshment, witbiers are as appropriate as any brew, and more complex. They are reminiscent of the fragrant season, and soft enough to sit well on a hot day. So, when that summer wind, comes blowin’ in…savor a witbier.