Small breweries and brewpubs like Ricklinger in Schleswig-Holstein are in fashion in northern Germany. Photo by Bryan Betts.

By Bryan Betts

When you think of good German beer, Bamberg and Munich are probably the first places that spring to mind. It is not all southern though—there is great beer in the north too, where Hamburg and Bremen were brewing powerhouses of the medieval Hanseatic League trading empire.

Historically, northern Germany’s beer culture was at least as strong as the south’s. It had much in common with its neighbors and trading partners—fruit, spiced and wheat beers as in Belgium, hoppy ales and even IPAs as in Britain, Baltic Porters and Stouts along the coast of course, and local specialities such as Mumme, Lütje Lagen and Broyhan.

Then came the “Bavarian colonization,” as beer historian Ron Pattinson has described it. In 50 years from 1860, almost the whole of northern Germany’s ancient ale culture vanished—first drowned in a northbound flood of lager, then finished off by a combination of the Bavarian Reinheitsgebot, imposed nationwide as a condition of Bavaria joining a unified Germany, and the social turmoil of industrialisation.

Northern Germany wasn’t exactly left as a beer desert, but fruit beers and spice beers were banned, sour beers were reduced to a few hardy hold-outs such as Berliner Weisse and Leipziger Gose, and its top-fermenting traditions were almost completely wiped out. Many old styles were lost forever, while others survived only in forms altered to suit the palates of new generations brought up on the myth that beer=Pilsner.

Now though, innovative brewers are starting to rediscover and reinvent those lost traditions. Unlike the big brewers, who implicitly use the Reinheitsgebot to dismiss all foreign beer out of hand (they have no purity law, so it must be full of nasty additives, right?) these innovators are happy to borrow from America, Britain and elsewhere. Often they simply want to make something different from Pils, but in doing so they are also restoring Germany’s lost brewing traditions.

The beer-equals-Pils myth remains strong, however, says Boris Georgiev, whose iconoclastic nanobrewery Zeugenbräu is northeast of Hamburg. “It’s like fifteen years ago in the US,” he sighs. “People here think beer is all the same—maybe it’s not as extreme [as in the US], but still…”

“I have to make Pils to get into the shops—everybody knows Pils, they get it from TV,” agrees Torsten Schumacher, the brewmaster of nearby micro Grönwohlder Hausbrauerei. He prefers to brew other beers, such as his lightly spicy Spezial and rich northern-style Dunkel, but they are unfiltered and don’t have the shelf-life the supermarkets need.

Ironically, what might finally crack that myth is that bottled Pils has become increasingly generic, with the big breweries selling it on price and via lifestyle adverts. This has helped inspire a craft beer movement, driven in part by the very German desire for something locally and traditionally-made. Unfiltered and hand-made beer is in vogue, and hops and darker malts are back in fashion, along with new versions of old northern varieties of pale ale, Baltic Porter, spiced gruit ale, wheat ale, and of course Dunkel.

Small breweries and brewpubs are in fashion too. Many focus on localism and quality, rather than doing something new—it is quite common for a German brewpub to offer just a Pils and a Dunkel or seasonal. A few are more innovative, and are proving that rural customers can be just as open as beer aficionados to fantastic new flavors: Klindworths in Lower Saxony, Ricklinger in Schleswig-Holstein, Eschenbräu in Berlin, and Finsterwalder in Brandenburg, for example. “It was hard to start with, but now people are looking for new tastes,” says Finsterwalder brewmaster Markus Klosterhoff.

Other inventive small brewers, such as FritzAle, Kreativbrauerei Kehrwieder, Propeller Bier and Zeugenbräu, are taking the bottling route. Germany doesn’t really do guest draft beers or have many specialist beer bars (yet), so if you want something different from the house draft, that means a bottle.

So what makes a beer northern? “The traditional brewers of the north were the Hanse, and the beers are very hoppy and very strong, like English IPAs,” says Christoph Puttnies, the brewmaster at Störtebeker Braumanufaktur on the Baltic coast. He says though that while micros can target niches, it is tough for a medium-sized brewer to make such beers when the average drinker is constantly fed adverts stressing that beer=Pils.

“There’s beer for the masses, and beer for special drinking,” he says. “We are in the middle, it is very difficult but we are trying to brew different beers.” He has several wheat beers, for instance, plus a sweet Baltic Porter and a rich and bittersweet 7.5% Stark-Bier, or strong beer. This latter highlights the challenge of working in overlapping traditions—to some, it is a Doppelbock, to others it resembles an Imperial Stout. Which is it? Puttnies shrugs: “In Germany, Baltic Stout is not so famous, but everyone knows Doppelbock,” he says.

Axel Ohm, who handles marketing for Hamburg’s Ratsherrn Brauerei, agrees that it is hard. He says breweries like Ratsherrn are torn between the desire to do something special but risky, and the temptation to play it safe and brew craft Pils for the masses. For now, Ratsherrn is trying to do both—as well as Pils, it also brews hopped-up weizenbiers and a crisp Pale Ale, and it has opened Hamburg’s first specialist craft beer restaurant and its second specialist craft beer store.

That northern hoppiness has fed through into “foreign” styles too—ask a northerner what is northern beer, and they will likely suggest Jever or Flensburger, two examples of the extra-bitter coastal variety of Pils. Even large breweries such as Holsten and Warsteiner have attempted this Nordisch Pils, albeit with limited success.

Bock is a north German invention of course, and tends to be a little hoppier here. However, even in its home city of Einbeck the versions brewed today are the bottom-fermented Bavarian clones, not the original top-fermented northern ales.

And the dark lagers, whether Dunkel or Schwarzbier—the latter is claimed as a northern style—are typically more bitter and roasty than Munich Dunkels. Good examples are Dithmarscher Dunkel, Lüttjes Schwarzbier and Vielanker Schwarz. There are even black Pilsners, but then German micros and brewpubs tend to be more concerned with brewing what their customers will enjoy drinking than with style guidelines.

BOULDER, CO—Vying for attention in the international arena, 23 American craft breweries, all members of the Brewers Association’s Export Development Program, won 36 awards in 22 different categories at European Beer Star, one of the most respected and recognized beer competitions in the world. The honorees were announced on September 18 at drinktec in Munich, Germany.

The competition is limited to 51 judging categories with consideration given to types of beer which have their origins in Europe. Over 1,500 beers from 40 different countries were evaluated by 102 beer and brewery expert judges. Gold, silver and bronze medals are awarded in every category and given for authentic, distinctive beers of impressive taste and quality that best fulfill the criteria of the particular style.

American craft breweries that received gold medal honors included:

“At Deschutes Brewery, we have been participating in the European Beer Star competition for several years, with success.  When we began our brewery, over 25 years ago, our model was a European one where American beer would return to its roots in Britain and continental Europe.  To be able to compete successfully in such a prestigious event as the European Beer Star is validation that our efforts have been worth it,” said Gary Fish, president, Deschutes Brewery. “Our efforts to export beer to Europe are still in their infancy.  However, we know, through the European Beer Star and the Brewers Association Export Development program, our opportunities for success are far greater than if we attempted to develop a new market, sophisticated in beer, on our own it would be incredibly difficult.”

“What an amazing honor to receive our fourth European Beer Star Award for our Left Hand Milk Stout,” said Eric Wallace, president, Left Hand Brewing Company. “We are incredibly proud to produce such a widely acclaimed sweet stout both in the United States and in the European Union. We hold the European Beer Star competition in high regard and it is very rewarding to be recognized on the international stage for our efforts.”

“As demand for products from small and independent craft brewers continues to grow in America, we are seeing the same things in many markets around the world.  Consumers are looking for unique and distinctive products,” said Bob Pease, chief operating officer, Brewers Association. “We’re thrilled to see that the international community is simultaneously responding to the ingenuity of American craft brewers as they continue to produce innovative, flavorful, unique and high-quality beers.”

Exports of American craft beer have maintained tremendous growth over the past several years. The Brewers Association’s Export Development Program reported record exports of American craft beer in 2012, with American craft beer export volume increasing by 72 percent with an estimated value of $49.1 million. Total American craft beer exports have increased by over 500 percent since 2007.

For more information about the European Beer Star Awards and a complete list of the 2013 American craft brewery winners, visit the European Beer Star website. Learn more about the Export Development Program on the Brewers Association website.

CHARLOTTE, NC—BeerTrips.com has put together a special beer tour of Germany to benefit Pints for Prostates. The beer adventure to Bavaria and Franconia will take place from Oct. 9-19, 2014.

The nine night dream trip includes stops in Aying, Garmisch Partenkirchen, Bayreuth, Rothenburg and Bamberg.  The trip includes beer tastings, escorted beer hall crawls, guided city walks, brewery tours, monastery visits, special meals and more.

BeerTrips.com is offering this special Pints for Prostates group tour to Germany to the public on a limited basis. Just 14 slots are available for this tour at $2,995 (+ air) based on double occupancy ($625 single room supplement). The tour will be hosted by Pints for Prostates founder and beer journalist Rick Lyke. Visit www.BeerTrips.com for details.

“This will be the fourth time we have teamed up with BeerTrips.com for a special Pints for Prostates European beer trip. This itinerary includes some amazing breweries and is really a unique way to experience Germany,” said Lyke. “We are thrilled to continue our partnership to help us raise funds and spread the word to men about the importance of regular prostate health screenings and early detection.”

“This is one of the most popular BeerTrips.com itineraries because it explores the best of Bavaria and Franconia,” said Mike Saxton, founder of BeerTrips.com. “We offer small groups an intimate experience with the chance for insider tours of some of the most famous breweries in the world. If you love beer and love to travel, this trip gives you a chance to experience the German countryside and some classic small cities that offer tremendous beers.”

As part of the BeerTrips.com and Pints for Prostates partnership, Pints for Prostates will raffle a trip for two for the special trip. For a $10 donation for a single ticket, $25 donation for three tickets or $50 for seven tickets, donors will be entered to win the trip that includes:

• The BeerTrips.com trip for two Oct. 9-19, 2014
• Roundtrip Airfare for Two from the Continental United States
• Nine Nights in Fine Centrally Located Hotels
• Brewery Tours
• Escorted Beer Hall Crawls
• Guided City Tours
• Breakfasts Daily/Special Beer Dinners and Beer Lunches
• Train & Private Coach Transportation

The total value of the trip for two is estimated at $8,500. The drawing will be held on July 27, 2014. The prize is non-transferable. No cash substitute will be offered. The winner and their guest are responsible for obtaining passports and all trip related costs not outlined above. You must be 21 years old to enter.

About BeerTrips.com

Beer Trips.com was founded in 1998 to offer serious beer people the opportunity to travel to the world’s best beer destinations with other people who love great beer. Beer and travel, travel and beer — these are two of our favorite things. Both, in our estimation, are worth a fair amount of life’s energy. Our goal, and our very reason for existing, is to take our travelers the best beer destinations, drink, taste and enjoy the best beers, meet the beer-loving people of the countries we visit, and explore the history, culture, art and architecture of the interesting places where beer “grew up”. To do this we stay in nice, well-located hotels, eat at great restaurants that emphasize beer in their fare, and visit breweries, brew pubs, cafes, and museums that enhance our understanding and appreciation of beer and its rich history and culture.

About Pints for Prostates

Pints for Prostates reaches men through the universal language of beer to encourage them to take charge of their health. The group was founded by prostate cancer survivor and beer writer Rick Lyke in 2008. The grassroots effort raises awareness among men about the importance of regular health screenings and PSA testing by making appearances at beer festivals, social networking and pro bono advertising. According to the National Cancer Institute, 240,890 new prostate cancer cases will be diagnosed in the U.S. in 2011. More information is available at www.pintsforprostates.org. Pints for Prostates also has a presence on Facebook and Twitter (@pints4prostates).

Peter Bouckaert, a native Belgian and brewmaster at New Belgium Brewing Co.

By Heather Vandenengel

Early last June of 2012, Brian Purcell, CEO and brewmaster of the soon-to-open Three Taverns Craft Brewery in Decatur, GA, took a seven-day beer tour of Belgium with his wife. He and his partner and CFO, Chet Burge, had almost reached their funding goal to open a Belgian-beer-inspired brewery, and the trip served as inspiration—in more ways than one.

“While touring breweries, I started to have this vision for bringing a Belgian brewer to the U.S. to work for us,” he says, calling from the brewery, which in early April was still a construction zone.

“I felt like there’s something in the DNA of Belgian brewers that you just can’t reproduce in an American brewer. At least it’s very hard, and I wanted to make as authentic Belgian-style beers as we can make, with an American creative twist or flair.”

Brewing Belgian beers had become an obsession for Purcell. As a homebrewer of 10 years, he dedicated himself to mastering Belgian-style brewing and learning as much as he could about Belgian beer. After four years of planning, his production brewery brewed its first batch in June.

“I learned that there are techniques, sensibilities, a philosophy or approach that Belgians have for brewing that is unique to that country, and I wanted to learn that and I wanted to discover it more,” he says of his Belgian trip.

Purcell’s pursuit—to bring a Belgian brewer to America to brew the best Belgian-inspired beer possible—raises questions of origin and its influence. How much does a brewer’s native culture influence his brewing? And what happens when a brewer makes beer in a brewing culture far different from his or her own?

The global brewing scene has become a melting pot, or mash tun, of beer cultures, styles and techniques. While Americans have always taken inspiration from other cultures and brewed styles that originated abroad, the relationship has grown stronger and shifted in a different direction. More and more, American brewers are drawn to the wild side of Belgian brewing, even investing in koelschips and isolating native yeasts, while some small Belgian brewers are brewing American-style IPAs and coming to the U.S. to brew collaboration beers.

It’s cross-cultural beer pollination, and nowhere is this more clear than in the stories of the pioneers—the brewers who were born, raised and trained in Old World brewing cultures of Belgium, Germany and the United Kingdom and then came to brew in the States. While backed by tradition, they’re inspired by the potential for change and the chance to be immersed in America’s craft beer culture. Here are a few of their stories.