Bavarian Wheat Beers

by K. Florian Klemp

Bavaria is synonymous with great brewing tradition, and is best known for its smooth, clean, bottom-fermented lagerbiers. Golden pilsners and Munich helles, seasonal Marzen and bocks, and it's own indigenous brew, Munich dunkel are all brewed in copious quantities in Bavaria. But there is a family of beers that run counter to the lagers in almost every aspect. These are the Bavarian wheat beers. Eccentric and old-fashioned, they are cloudy, quirky, spritzy and top-fermented. Ripe with very odd, identifiable flavors and aromas not usually acceptable in beers, nevermind German brews, wheat beers are riding a wave of popularity and now enjoy a collective market share of well over 20% in Germany. This was not always the case and it took the foresight of an astute German brewing patriarch to resusitate this almost extinct type of beer a century and a half ago. Wheat beers are again as much a way of Bavarian life as pretzels and sausage. In fact, the German tradition of "brotzeit ( breadtime )", the mid-morning snack equivalent to a coffee break, often includes wheat beer as a refresher. They can be referred to weissebier ( white beer ) because of its haziness and relative light color, or weizenbier ( wheat beer ), but they are one and the same. The light versions can't be beat for quenching the thirst, but there are enough variations to satisfy any whim. There are also strong ( weizen bock ), filtered ( kristall ), and dark ( dunkelweizen ) versions of the style. All have a unique common footprint in them that separates these interesting brews from the rest of beerdom.

Wheat Beer History

As wheat is one of the oldest cultivated grains in the world is would come as no suprise that it found it's way into early fermented beverages. It is generally accepted that brewing had a rather seredipidous beginning. Stored grains became wet, the ubiquitous wild yeast fermented the resulting mixture, and people consumed it, only to discover its unusual flavor, nutritive value, and of course, its intoxicating effect. It is known that wheat was used to some extent in Babylonia thousands of years ago. Though it was eventually determined that barley was better for brewing and wheat for food, wheat no doubt remained a common if not vital component of ancient beers. This held true as brewing practices spread from the fertile crescent northward through Europe through the Middle Ages. The niche that wheat held in brewing and references to it are known from the 15th to the 17th centuries in Germany, Austria, and Bohemia.

The historical notes, and significance, of wheat beer brewing become less nebulous about this time in and around Bavaria. The first true weissebier brewery was built in the 15th century in the Bavarian village of Schwarzach by the noble family, the Degenbergers. Even after the passage of the Reinheitsgebot, which did not allow wheat malt to be used, the Degenberger clan was allowed to be the sole producer of weissebier because of it's granfathered tenure in the brewing industry. When the last of the Degenbergers died, the control of the brewery was assumed by the ruling Bavarian dukes, the Wittlesbachs, and they set up shop next to their brownbier ( dunkels ) brewery in Munich. This is now the site of the Hofbrauhaus Munich. As the new proprietors of the wessebier brewery ( and original authors of the Reinheitsgebot ), the Wittelsbachs became the sole purveyors of wheat beer in Bavaria. After noticing that the masses were quite enamored with this notoriously noble brew, the Wittelsbachs expanded their domain and built many more weissebier brweries in southern Germany. The pubs that wre controlled the be Dukes were required to serve not only their dunkels but also wiessebier, lest their privelegdes be revoked. The beer became so popular that a road was built from a ducal brewery in Kelheim to Ingolstadt just to slake the thirsts of students at hte University! It became known as the Bierstrasse ( beer street ).

As the popularity of wheat beers plateaued, another phenomenon was fomenting in Bavaria and Bohemia that ould revolutionize the brewing world. Better malting techniques, lager-brewing refinement and microbiological advances were slowly making their way into mainstream brewing technology. By the middle of the 19th century, Munich had perfected its namesake dunkels ( brownbier ), and Bohemia and Vienna introduced their pale lagers by utilizing the above-mentioned techniques. The pilsners and Viennas were quite impressive and quickly replaced the weissbiers as everyday quaffs among the masses. Weissebier consumption fell dramatically as the novel lagers replaced them. Wheat beers in Germany may well have vanished were it not for the tenacity, vision and confidence of Georg Schneider.

Schneider became the tenant of the ducal brewery in Kelheim in 1855 and began producing his own wheat beers. He wrested the brewing rights to weissebier from the dunkels brewery next door in 1872 and effectively ended the royal control of wheat beers. His production soared and wheat beers enjoyed something of a comeback in this period. the fifthe and six generation Schneiders operate the brewery to this day.

For the next several decades, wheat beers made up a small fraction of all beer sold in Germany and it wasn't until after World War II that they were rediscovered and sales rejuvenated by the general populace. Suddenly, and somewhat mysterioulsy, wheat beers started to attract a new generation od admirers. Sonce the 1950's, these brews have steadily become more popular, even hip, to the point where today almost a quarter of all beer sold in Germany are wheat beers. Perhaps it is a reversion to things more matural, more traditional, or simply a rediscoery of the complexity that makes different beers unique. The same trend is occurring in North America.

Profile Of a Wheat Bier

One could be succinct and straightforward in describing a wheat beer, I suppose. They are top-fermented, hazy, highly-carbonated, low in hop aroma and bitterness, made with 50 to 70% malted wheat, and exhibit a tart, fruity flavor and aroma. This would not do a fine Bavarian wheat beer justice however, especially when pouring over the flavor and aroma components.

Wheat beers, more than any other broad style of beer, may be defined by complexity rather than a couple of distinct attributes. The use of wheat adds something to this profile, but the main contributor to the uniqueness is a very special and unusual strain of yeast which is almost never used for anything but a wheat beer. The aroma is a cacophany of vanilla, banana, clove, spices, and even apple and juicy fruit gum, all of which would be quite unwelcomed in most beers, but are quite at home in the sanctuary of a wheat beer. The malted wheat adds a tart / malty component that gives a wheat beer even more depth. A sampling of products from several different breweries would demonstrate a commonality among the various beers. There are enough subtle differences among them to find a favorite and these are great beers to compare.

Wheat beers are generally cloudy. The use of wheat, which is very high in protein, and the unfiltered, bottle-conditioned nature of the beer contributes to this. The protein precipitates readily in a wheat beer, especially when cold, and results in a "chill haze" cloudiness. The yeast in the bottle, which can become resuspended also will contribute some haze.

There is a noticeable absence of the noble hop character that accompanies most German beers. Wheat beers contain a hop ( bitterness ) rate that is about one half that of even a lightly hopped beer, barely perceptible. As the hops stand meekly in the background, the other flavors are allowed to come to the forefront. Ah, modesty.

A Weizen By Any Other Name

Mentioned in the introduction were the various siblings of the weizen family, all of which are quite distinct. There are really four types of weizenbeir; hefe weizen, kristall weizen, dunkelweizen, and weizen bock. Their pedigree dictates that they are made with at least 50% wheat, are top-fermented, subtley hopped, and aggressively carbonated. They all have the "weizen" character to some degree,

Hefe Weizenbier: This is the most common version of the wheat beers. It is bottle-conditioned and sedimented so it has the yeast either in the bottom of the bottle or in suspension, giving it a cloudy appearance. The chill haze is also evident. The prefix "hefe" simply means yeast. This is Bavarian wheat beer at its most traditional and unadalterated state. After fermentation, the beer is bottled with its original yeast or a second strain to provide a tertiary fermentation in the container. A hefe weizen is of standard strength for a beer, about 5% ABV. Draft hefe weizen should also be cloudy.

Kristall Weizen ( Weisse ): Kristall is the German word for "clear" and thus this is a filtered weizenbier. A kristall will retain the signature weizen character, but have a more mellow, refined taste, almost lager-like. Kristall weizen has had all of the yeast, and much of the chill haze removed like most beers in Germany would. This is not to say it is any less enjoyable than a hefe, just softer.

Dunkelweizen: Dunkel is German for "dark", so this is literally a dark wheat beer. Dark malts are used to deepen the color and character of the brew, and they compliment the other weizen character perfectly. Caramel sweetness along with raisiny and chocolate notes can be detected depending on the brewery. These are roughly the same strength as a hefe weizen and most breweries include them in their portfolio.

Weizen Bock: You guessed it, bock-strength weizen. These are generally dark and are similar to dunkelweizen but much stronger. Like all versions of weizen, the retain the fruity, spicy notes. These are somewhat rare and are not to be missed if available. Rich, with loads of malty sweetness. These brews are bursting with character beyond imagination. They are perfect with dessert or as a nightcap.

Enjoying Wheat Beers

There are a couple of things to bear in mind when pouring or serving a wheat beer. They are rambunctious brews due to the higher carbonation levels and demand some attention when pouring. Like a genie, they can't wait to get out of the bottle and if not delivered correctly will erupt effusively. They are best served in an hour glass shaped German wheat beer glass that will hold a full half litre bottle with plenty of room to spare. Wet the glass with cold water first. Method one is to quickly invert the bottle in the glass, and when the level the beer in the glass reaches the bottle, slowly retract the bottle with minimal splashing until the bottle is empty. This will also disgorge the yeast in the bottom of the bottle if it isn't suspended already.

Method two is much less exciting. Tip the glass, and slowly decant the beer along the side of the wetted surface until the bottle is almost empty leaving a half inch in the bottle. If a yeasty glass of brew is preferred, swirl the remainder and dump it into the beer. It has become standard practice in some places to put a lemon wedge on the side of the glass, leaving its addition to the beer up to the drinker. Try it without the lemon. It would be a shame to diquise the the very things that make a wheat beer unique with a flavor as strong as lemon.

Hunting For Wheat Beers

The best place to get the full wheat beer experience, of course would be Bavaria. Breweries that produce wheat beers abound in most of Southern Germany.

Tasting Notes

Capital Brewing Company Kloster Weisse

This brewery in Middleton, Wisconsin ( near the state capital of Madison ) is perenially ranked among the best in the United States. They specialize in German style brews and their weisse is one of the finest in the States. It is made exactly to German specifications and delivers great Bavarian authenticity. They also make a seasonal weizen bock that is outstanding.

Weihenstephan Hefeweissbier Dunkel

Home of the oldest brewery in the world and the Technical University of Munich brewing school, Weihenstephan has been brewing since 1040. Their premium Hefeweissbier Dunkel is the same strength as their regular hefeweissbier but offers much more depth thanks to the dark malts. Tawny in color, the caramel background complements the fruity, spicy character nicely. Very complex and satifying without being too heavy like a lot of other dark beers.

Spaten-Franziskaner Hefe-Weissbier

A classic Bavarian hefeweizen from one of the most well-known breweries in the world. Softly fruity and spicy with banana and clove dominating. Excellent as an everyday beer or as a hot weather quencher.

Herrnbrau Kristall-Weizen

An excellent example of the Kristall version of weizenbier. The usual suspects adorn the aroma, though less so than a hefeweizen. The flavor is clean, malty and almost lager-like, and again the weizen character is there but understated. This would be a great brew to indocrinate beer lovers to the wheat styles without shocking their palate. The perfect summer quencher.

Schneider & Sohn Aventinus

This brew is as complex as any other beer, period. Layers of layers of wunderbar flavors and aromas tantilize the palate with each sip. The dark malts add caramel and raisin notes to the other familar "weizen" characteristics. Rich and malty also, this beer is brewed to bock strength and is referred to as a Weizen Doppelbock. It's hard to believe a beer could be this interesting. Brewed by the famous Schneider family mentioned in the text, it is a true Bavarian classic.