All About Beer Magazine » Travel https://allaboutbeer.net Celebrating the World of Beer Culture Fri, 06 Sep 2013 20:01:28 +0000 en hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.0.1 Breaking with Conventions https://allaboutbeer.net/live-beer/travel/beer-travelers/2013/07/breaking-with-conventions/ https://allaboutbeer.net/live-beer/travel/beer-travelers/2013/07/breaking-with-conventions/#comments Mon, 01 Jul 2013 19:24:31 +0000 Brian Yaeger https://allaboutbeer.net/?p=30930 There are conferences throughout the year that diehard beer fans would love to attend to rub elbows with those who have become celebrities in the industry. But the Craft Brewers Conference is reserved for industry members only. And the Great American Beer Festival is an awesome chance to sample the best beers from around the country and possibly get a quick howdy/thanks with the brewmasters as they spend a portion of the time pouring their own beers. But what about conventions for the hoi polloi? If you want to fraternize with like-minded beer geeks, there are three such conferences this summer around the country. And for what it’s worth, rock-star brewers will be in attendance and are just as happy speaking to the community that supports them, which of course is part of the reason the community is so supportive in the first place.

Philadelphia

When the sold-out National Homebrewers Conference hits the City of Brotherly Love in June, it’ll do so in the city where Benjamin Franklin and William Penn dabbled in a little homebrewing long before the advent of the American Homebrewers Association. So if you’re a homebrewer, you’re in great company, and this annual event is immensely fun and educational regardless of your skill level.

After all, we can’t all be pioneering professionals the way braumeister John Wagner was. He’s commemorated by a historic marker on North American Street at the corner of Poplar for having brewed “America’s first lager” here. It’s situated just down the block from Standard Tap (901 N. 2nd St.; StandardTap.com) in the Northern Liberties neighborhood. Among its two dozen taps, you’ll always find offerings from the Keystone State’s finest, from America’s oldest brewery, Yuengling & Sons, located in Pottsville, to Sly Fox Brewing located in Pottstown, whose Pikeland Pils would likely have done braumeister Wagner proud. You’ll also have the chance to try one of my favorite IPAs, Double Simcoe from Weyerbacher’s in Easton. The brewery’s over an hour’s drive north, so just get a pint here.

Our beer docent is Bryan Kolesar, who’s been blogging at BrewLounge.com since 2005 and also covers the local beer scene for the Communities section of The Washington Times. He starts with Yards Brewing (901 N. Delaware Ave.; YardsBrewing.com), established in 1994. Kolesar points to this brewery’s “cult favorite ESA” (Extra Special Ale, medal winner at last year’s Great American Beer Festival), though the brewers have expanded beyond their original British-style ales. The tasting room is open daily with tours offered weekends from noon to 4 p.m. Having said that, one of the best places to enjoy the ESA is from the gravity tap found at Bridgid’s (726 N. 24th St.; Bridgids.com), a Eurocentric tavern that serves the ale from a cask located a floor above the bar.

If you’re venturing out to Bridgid’s, cross the Schuylkill River and hit Dock Street Brewing (701 S. 50th St.; DockStreetBeer.com) in West Philly. It’s easily reachable by hopping on SEPTA’s trolley route 34. Kolesar conducts an annual beer run during Philly Beer Week (early June) in conjunction with the brewery, in case that inspires you to run there (3.5 miles each way from Center City. Speaking of which, locals absolutely do not refer to this district as “city center”). At Dock Street, don’t miss Illuminator Dopplebock, hailed by the legendary Michael Jackson as an “enlightening example” of the style.

Another brewery to make sure to check out, although it’s nearly five miles from Center City, is Philadelphia Brewing (2439 Amber St.; PhiladelphiaBrewing.com), itself only a dozen years old though housed in a beautifully restored 19th-century brewhouse offering free tours Saturdays from noon to 3 p.m. Afterward, amble a couple of blocks into the heart of the Kensington neighborhood to the Memphis Taproom (2331 E. Cumberland St.; MemphisTaproom.com), where you’ll find a great beer garden, several locals on draft, including offerings from Victory Brewing and tasty vittles.

Of course, one need not venture far from Center City to visit a local brewery. Walk through Penn Square and then upstairs to Nodding Head Brewery (1516 Sansom St., 2nd floor, NoddingHead.com). It has racked up several awards, including a three-year run of GABF medals for Ich Bin Ein Berliner Weisse. While this summer seasonal is refreshing and delicious on its own, Kolesar says, “Owner Curt Decker has mentioned that no one takes more delivery of woodruff syrup outside of Germany than do they.” Food-menuwise, you’ll find a range from Belgian mussels and frites to Southern chicken and waffles.

If it’s Belgian you’re craving, continue on a few blocks farther for Philly’s highly esteemed Monk’s Café (264 S. 16th St.; MonksCafe.com), whose private-label oud bruin, a Flemish brown ale, is always one of the 20 taps among an impressive list of Belgian beers as well as a few American-brewed ones, typically in various Belgian styles. The bottle list is even more ridiculously drool-inducing.

As for area breweries, Kolesar also encourages hopping the Chestnut Hill East train toward Northwest Philly so as to check out Earth Bread + Brewery (7136 Germantown Ave.; EarthBreadBrewery.com), where husband-wife team of Tom Baker and Peggy Zwerver wield grains into delectable edibles and libations. Nearby is the Philly outpost of Iron Hill Brewery (8400 Germantown Ave.; IronHillBrewery.com/chestnuthill). “With their thirty-plus GABF and WBC awards over the past decade or so,” their beers are on the money.

If you’re attending the NHC (or just doing a beercation to Philadelphia), the host hotel, the Marriott Downtown, is already sold out, but the Hilton Garden Inn-Center City (1100 Arch St.) offers an NHC discount rate.

Finally, a word about eating. Kolesar offered a deluge of great cheesesteak and hoagie spots  (Jim’s, John’s, Chubby’s, Dalessandro’s) and acknowledged that the two primary traps—Pat’s and Geno’s—“are good for people-watching at 3 a.m., but nearby in Old City is Campo’s (214 Market St.; CamposDeli.com), where you can find a great hoagie.” Better still, advises Kolesar, head to the historic Reading Terminal Market (51 N. 12th St. at Arch Street; ReadingTerminalMarket.org) for a collection of restaurants that proffer history, a variety of smells and visuals, and great sandwiches and beers. His top choice? “DiNic’s (TommyDiNics.com), period.” Be sure to order the roast pork sandwich with broccoli rabe and aged provolone, which he points out won best sandwich in the country (on the Travel Channel). “The Market is a local treasure … for produce, fish, meat, coffee, ice cream and a decent beer bar named Molly Malloy’s.”

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Where to Drink Craft Beer in Portland https://allaboutbeer.net/live-beer/travel/2013/07/where-to-drink-craft-beer-in-portland/ https://allaboutbeer.net/live-beer/travel/2013/07/where-to-drink-craft-beer-in-portland/#comments Mon, 01 Jul 2013 18:47:19 +0000 Lisa Morrison https://allaboutbeer.net/?p=30920 Portland, OR, is divided into four quadrants by the Willamette River and Burnside Street. And because Portland is just a little weird, there’s a fifth quadrant. Some quadrants are more suds-soaked than others, but no matter where you find yourself, there’s always good beer nearby.

NORTHWEST

Deschutes Brewery Portland Public House: Features Deschutes beers you can’t find anywhere else.

Rogue Distillery & Public House: 38 taps, a full restaurant and bar and a working still.

NORTHEAST

Concordia Ale House: Rotating beer menu; cool refurbished pink elephant mural.

Laurelwood Public House & Brewery: Award-winning beers; kid-friendly.

Migration Brewing: Dog-friendly.

NORTH

5th Quadrant: Connected Side Bar features even more Lompoc beers.

Amnesia Brewing: Dog-friendly.

Breakside Brewery: Envelope-pushing beers.

The Hop & Vine: Inventive tap list.

Saraveza Bottle Shop & Pasty Tavern: Wisconsin kitsch, awesome rotating taps.

Widmer Gasthaus: Widmer beers you didn’t even know existed.

SOUTHWEST

Bailey’s Taproom: 20 taps.

Higgins Restaurant: James Beard Award winner chef-owner; extensive beer list.

SOUTHEAST

APEX: Fifty rotating taps; The Beermongers bottle shop is kitty corner.

Bazi Bierbrasserie: A slice of Brussels.

Belmont Station: 17 uncommon taps and 1,200 bottles.

Cascade Brewing Barrel House: Sour and blending masters.

Gigantic Brewing: Awesome year-round IPA, seasonals and one-offs.

Hair of the Dog: Mind-blowing beer; excellent food.

Hopworks Urban Brewery: Organic.

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Drinking with Dinosaurs https://allaboutbeer.net/live-beer/travel/beer-travelers/2013/05/drinking-with-dinosaurs/ https://allaboutbeer.net/live-beer/travel/beer-travelers/2013/05/drinking-with-dinosaurs/#comments Wed, 01 May 2013 19:00:43 +0000 Brian Yaeger https://allaboutbeer.net/?p=29152

Beer traveling is a new type of pilgrimage we make as adults, but the kid in us would love to go dinosaur hunting. Sure, time travel would be perfect, but failing that, visits to exciting paleontological sites and museums can be as exhilarating to the entire family as exploring a new brewery is to Mom and Dad. When it comes time to plan road trips this summer with the family, there are fortunately some locales that host both great beer culture and kid-friendly destinations where dinosaurs come to life.

This idea was inspired by friends known as the Travel Junkies who visited the George S. Eccles Dinosaur Park in Ogden, UT, and posted pictures of their daughter being mauled by a Triceratops (replica) and then actually poring over freshly unearthed dinosaur fossils of a Typothorax (think monster armadillo). The look on her face mirrored that of my own as I pour back the remains of a newly discovered dynamite sour.

Here are three spots where ancient dinosaurs and contemporary beers spring to life, starting with Ogden and nearby SLC.

Salt Lake City, UT

The Mountain West is a hotbed of beer culture, and Mike Riedel, who blogs at UtahBeer.blogspot.com, offers up some of the fiercest specimens to devour during your visit to this northwest quadrant of the Four Corner states. Starting with downtown SLC’s six breweries and brewpubs, Riedel begins his tour at Desert Edge Brewery (273 Trolley Square). In the midst of this Mormon domain, who says LDS has to stand for Latter-day Saints? At this spacious brewpub in Trolley Square, it stands for Latter Day Stout, a rich yet dry Irish stout, meaning it fits into Utah’s 3.2 law (since 3.2 percent alcohol by weight equals 4 percent alcohol by volume). Anything stronger has to be bottled for off-premise consumption.

Riffing off the bedrock church of the region, Wasatch’s Polygamy Porter is the flagship of the state’s first craft brewery, founded in 1989 and named for the mountain range that comprises central Utah’s span of the Rocky Mountains. The beers are brewed and bottled under its joint venture with Squatters, whose brewpub is four blocks east of Desert Edge (147 W. Broadway).

While you can sample across its range of draft offerings, from Provo Girl Pils to Captain Bastard’s Oatmeal Stout, Riedel is a big fan of its 529 Oud Bruin, a Flanders-style brown ale that can only be procured in corked bottles at the pub. Why is it called 529? That’s how many days it ages with wild yeasts in barrels. Speaking of its barrel-aging program, Mike also recommends trying to track down a bottle of Switch Barrel Aged Ale, a Belgian-style witbier aged in port casks.

Walk out Squatters’ door and practically right into Red Rock Brewery’s (254 S. 200 West). Established in 1994, this casual spot rocks the pub grub (people rave about the beer-battered onion rings). To wash down one of its wood-fired pizzas, Riedel suggests one of its higher-gravity beers it therefore has to package (using half-liter bottles), Bobcat Brown Ale.

Uinta Brewing Co. (1722 Fremont Drive) runs a small brewhouse pub where its 32 beers are available on tap and big beers are sold by the bottle (for off-premise enjoyment). While the brewers  do hops, they’re doing extraordinary things with dark beers such as Baba Black Lager, Labyrinth Black Ale, Dubhe Imperial Black IPA and a new one Riedel mentions: Sea Legs Baltic Porter.

Beer geeks beyond the Beehive State are already stuck on Epic Brewing Co. (825 S. State St.), so it’s no wonder Riedel foams at the mouth thinking of its suds, like the newly released Brainless, a Belgo-IPA. Since the focus is on high-gravity beers and Utah state laws are written the way they are, visit the Tap-less Taproom, where, as mandated by law, if you order a panini or some food, you can sample beers like my personal favorite, Big Bad Baptist, an imperial stout made with cocoa nibs and coffee beans and aged in whiskey barrels.

Each batch of Big Bad Baptist is a little bit different, and the brewers have been known to source their tasty, caffeinated adjuncts from Millcreek Coffee Roasters (657 S. Main St.) run by the Brewster family and located just two blocks away. Riedel says that not only do the Brewsters make some mean java, but they also roast their own cacao and make a chocolate bar “that is 70 percent Ecuadorian Arriba Cacao that’s sprinkled with espresso roasted on premises. Pure heaven! No LDS involved with this stuff!”

Fitting for the state’s nickname, The Beerhive (128 S. Main St.) is a must, according to Riedel. Beer nerds come here to geek out, though the ambience is still laid-back. The beer menu is around 200-strong, mostly American craft brands, and you can also buy bottles to go. And when it comes time to sop it all up, head to Bruges Waffles and Frites (336 W. Broadway). Both the Liege waffles and the frites are available with an array of condiments, such as Belgian chocolate sauce for the waffles and assorted savory dipping mayos for the better-than-fries. Go the gut-bomb route and order the Waffle Monster topped with vanilla bean ice cream and fresh strawberries or the protein fix of a Machine Gun sandwich made with merguez sausages and, yes, frites.

Of course, while you’re in the city named for the Great Salt Lake, burn off your beers and other treats on Antelope Island, the largest within the lake. There are 45 miles of hiking and biking trails, and you’re sure to catch a glimpse of the island’s 500 buffaloes.

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London is Brewing https://allaboutbeer.net/uncategorized/2013/03/london-is-brewing/ https://allaboutbeer.net/uncategorized/2013/03/london-is-brewing/#comments Fri, 01 Mar 2013 15:55:57 +0000 Adrian Tierney-Jones https://allaboutbeer.net/?p=29209

In the city where porter emerged as the first beer of the industrial age, London is poised for a bigger surge in craft brewing.

It’s Friday lunchtime at the Dean Swift, a smart but casual corner pub on the south side of the Thames and a few minutes’ stroll from Tower Bridge. Inside the open-space bar, the lunchtime crowd of young professionals and serious barflies scuff the battered oak floorboards as they enter in search of good food and drink. The beer is flowing: The pub has a comprehensive selection of cask, keg and bottles from both home and abroad.

I go for local and order a bottle of Kernel’s Export Stout, brewed a stone’s throw away beneath a railway arch close to Bermondsey subway. Based on an 1850 recipe, this luxurious dark beer manages to blend notes of vanilla, rich chocolate liqueur and freshly ground coffee beans with an end-of-palate acidity that adds a noble and delicious contrast. It’s magnificent.

Fifty years ago, if you’d have asked for a local beer in this pub, you would probably have been offered Best Bitter or Directors, both of them made at the massive Courage brewery sited just around the corner. Courage was just one of the many famous London names that endowed the city with its reputation as brewing capital of the world. London, after all, was where the first beer of the industrial age—porter—emerged, followed by its younger, more vigorous sibling, stout. Furthermore, you could also argue that London was the birthplace of what would become known as India pale ale (though its spiritual home was Burton upon Trent).

So much history and at one stage so many breweries, but in the decades after World War II, most gave up the ghost and either deserted the capital for cheaper sites elsewhere or completely removed themselves from brewing (many being swallowed by larger competitors in the process). Courage’s Anchor Brewhouse (as it was known) closed in 1981 when the brewery went west in the direction of the town of Reading; it is now a block of luxury flats. Whitbread had already left in 1976—its brewery is now a conference centre. Other names that once made Londoners proud of their beery traditions also joined the rush for the exit: Truman, Charrington and Taylor Walker are among the most famous. Walk London’s streets now and their names can be occasionally seen decorating pub facades, lingering on like ghosts.

London Turnaround

By the start of the 21st century, only Fuller’s, Young’s and new guys Meantime, plus a handful of micros, flew the flag for independent brewing in London (though Guinness and Budweiser were produced in massive plants in the western ’burbs). The downward plunge had not yet finished, either. In 2006, Young’s closed and merged with Charles Wells in Bedford, some 50 miles north of the capital (where Courage beers are also now brewed). A year later, it was estimated that London had a mere 10 breweries and brewpubs, small beer if you consider its 5,000 pubs and the millions living and working within the city limits. (It was an ironic fact of geography that London’s brewing deficit mirrored that of a couple of other beer nation capitals—instead of Berlin we think of Munich, while Pilsen always comes before Prague.)

Times change. Fast forward to 2012 and the number of breweries London hosts is now nudging 30. And, given London’s magnificent history and comparative quietness on the recent brewing front, it’s long overdue.

Fuller’s continues to straddle the scene, while Meantime has had a new brewery installed, supposedly the largest new build in London since 1936. As for the newcomers, most are admittedly small outfits: Some, such as Brodie’s, London Brewing and the Florence, are twined with a pub; others, like Redemption, call home an industrial estate. Prize for most unusual location, though, goes to Tap East, which makes its beers behind a bar at the massive Westfield shopping mall in East London.

Whatever the location, though, there’s a sense of innovation, excitement and pure beery bonhomie that’s not been seen in the city for a long time. Some pretty awesome beers are flowing out of the taps as well: elegant pale ales, robust IPAs, slinky lagers, boisterous bitters, ravishing wheat beers and intriguing fusions that any student of the U.S. craft beer boom would recognize (imperial Märzen anyone?).

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Flying South https://allaboutbeer.net/live-beer/travel/beer-travelers/2013/03/flying-south/ https://allaboutbeer.net/live-beer/travel/beer-travelers/2013/03/flying-south/#comments Fri, 01 Mar 2013 06:34:42 +0000 Brian Yaeger https://allaboutbeer.net/?p=29166

The brewery population in Atlanta recently reached double digits.

Not terribly long ago, we explored the idea of confronting Jack Frost mano a mano and actually heading north in our wintry beer travels. Bold, but there’s a more comfortable way to soak up beer culture that puts hop bite ahead of frostbite. And with craft beer culture permeating every corner of the country, consider visiting existing and emerging hot spots in the American South.

It took the South a bit longer to appear on the beer map, considering, historically, it was more difficult to brew quality beer below the Mason-Dixon line (hotter temperatures spoiled the beer. Plus, no hops). But modern technology and passion know no bounds. So forget about talk of secession—the South is rising and even Yankees ought to pack a few growlers and shorts and prepare to eat more biscuits and gravy with breakfast than some folks might ordinarily get all year.

Atlanta

When RateBeer.com users vote two beer bars in Atlanta among the top in the U.S. (OK, one’s in Decatur, but they’re less than four miles apart), it’s clear The Big Peach plays a dominant role. No wonder the brewery population has reached double digits.

Brewerywise, it starts with Red Brick Brewing (2323 Defoor Hills Road). Georgia’s first craft brewery, founded as the Atlanta Brewing Co., counts Hoplanta IPA and Red Brick Brown among its core beers. It created the Brick Mason series for bigger beers, including a Double IPA and Vanilla Gorilla that sees a smoked porter receive smoked vanilla beans before aging in whiskey barrels. Red Brick’s 17th Anniversary Ale is an imperial version of its brown ale, then aged in Jim Beam barrels.

SweetWater Brewing Co. (195 Ottley Drive NE) in the Buckhead neighborhood, was founded in 1996 and has grown into one of the country’s largest on the strength of its flagship 420 Extra Pale Ale. Its growing barrel program keeps it at the forefront of intriguing new beers. Visit the brewery for a tour Wednesday through Saturday, but really, just skip the tour and spend your time kicking it at the tasting room, where a ten spot gets six 5.5-ounce beers.

Atlantans have thrown their arms around 5 Seasons, now with three locations stretching from 5 Seasons-Midtown (1000 Marietta St.) to the original in Sandy Springs tucked inside The Prado shopping center (5600 Roswell Road) and 5 Seasons-North in the suburb of Alpharetta (3655 Old Milton Parkway). Two talented brewmasters helm the brew houses, both esteemed for the brews. On the pub side, the fare leans more toward gastro than grub. There’s no going wrong with the Organic Brisket Reuben with amazing hand-cut sweet potato fries (with cocoa chili). The entrees are always elegant, and, this being Atlanta, definitely go for the Coca-Cola Cured Duck Breast. (Do this preferably after visiting the World of Coca-Cola, aka the Coke Museum, at 121 Baker St. NW; worldofcoca-cola.com).

As if brewpubs aren’t fun enough on their own, Twain’s (211 E. Trinity Place in Decatur) is both a billiard hall and brewpub. Well, it started tapping only other people’s beers, but in ’06 the pub wisely started to brew its own. The Tropicalia Project is its series of single-hopped IPAs. The food menu is beered up, too, in small but fun ways like making spent-grain bread and offering IPA-brined pickles. With pool tables as well as shuffleboard and arcade games, hope you weren’t in a rush to go somewhere else.

The beer joint often seen as synonymous with Atlanta is the Brick Store Pub (125 E. Court Square in Decatur). On the main floor, it feels like you’re in a British pub, down to the horseshoe bar and British classics such as shepherd’s pie on the menu. The draft list is far-reaching, but you’ll certainly find a few taps dedicated to in-state brews from SweetWater and perhaps something from Athens’ Terrapin. Upstairs, the beer culture changes to little Belgium in the Belgian Room. Here, you can get your geek on with a bottle list that’s even longer than the one printed for downstairs, and—it goes without saying—pricier, too. But hey, Cantillon is worth the cost, and it’s on the list.

Newer on the Decatur scene but from the same Gallagher brothers who brought us The Pub is Leon’s Full Service (131 E. Ponce de Leon Ave.), its name taken from its former use as an actual filling station. Here, beer shares the spotlight with its cocktail brethren, and the munchies menu has gone more upscale, including Georgia shrimp and clams in a white wine broth. But fans of finger foods will love the frites served with a staggering array of dipping options (the curry ketchup and smoked tomato mayo are my faves) and the most talked about is the glassful of bacon strips with a side of peanut butter for dipping.

The Porter (1156 Euclid Ave.) in Little 5 Points is the other beer mecca in town. With over 800 beers to be enjoyed (including 40 on draft), how could it not be? Order a glass of the L5 Project Imperial Porter from Wrecking Bar, one of Atlanta’s other fine new breweries, or a bottle of Hard Time Barleywine from one of Georgia’s newest and most exciting micros. Happily, since you’ll be doing some serious drinking here, you get to do serious eating, too. The half-pound burger is a meal to behold, and if the Wrecking Bar is your first stop of the day, at least on weekends, the brunch options are mouthwatering. The toughest decision you make may be whether to go sweet with pancakes topped with bananas flambé and toasted pecans, or savory with a “Biscuit’wich” holding scrambled eggs, cheese and choice of breakfast meat (including soysage for those who don’t do meat).

Since I forgot to mention that Leon’s offers a bocce court, now’s a good time to do so, seeing as Ormsby’s (1170 Howell Mill Road) in Westside sports bocce action, too. It even hosts (Atlanta Bocce) league play. The smartly curated draft options are apt to include some of the other Atlanta-area breweries such as Monday Night Brewing, which morphed from three guys who met in a Bible studies group and learned how to homebrew together into a company that, after a year in operation, is expanding into a 30-barrel brewery that’ll see the addition of a tap room and, duh, bocce courts.

Last but nowhere near least is Taco Mac, the chain of family-friendly sports bars that kick-started beer education in Atlanta—now with 22 locations—and expanding throughout the South. By getting patrons to enroll in the chain’s Brewniversity program and continue trying new beers (not hard when the bars have over 140 taps), Taco Mac deserves the credit for expanding people’s craft-beer perceptions and palates.

In fact, once you have more than a few beers punched on your member card, you can gain access to The Fred (5600 Roswell Road), hidden away in the basement of the Taco Mac-Prado location. Taco Mac beverage director Fred Crudder says he has the best job in the world. This is his tangible proof: Order up a Mac ’n’ Cheese Kobe Burger, pair it with something off Fred’s Secret Stash list you thought you’d never get to try, and sink into a night of rarefied beer culture.

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Navigating Your Way Around the Great American Beer Festival https://allaboutbeer.net/live-beer/travel/beer-travelers/2013/01/navigating-your-way-around-the-great-american-beer-festival/ https://allaboutbeer.net/live-beer/travel/beer-travelers/2013/01/navigating-your-way-around-the-great-american-beer-festival/#comments Tue, 29 Jan 2013 23:40:53 +0000 Brian Yaeger https://allaboutbeer.net/?p=28175 For beer lovers, attending the Great American Beer Festival (GABF) in Denver deserves to be at the tippy top of your bucket list, that check-list of things to do or places to see before you die. In 2012, there were more than 450 breweries pouring nearly 2,500 different beers (from all 84 recognized categories) all under one roof. Good luck getting to try that many beers in any other single location. And Godspeed trying to try all the beers you’d like to, or even just all the IPAs on the convention floor. Can’t be done.

Of course, the other awesome aspect about going to GABF is that it’s in Colorado. The northwest corner where the Great Plains begin to level out from the Rocky Mountains is home to dozens of must-drink breweries and an overall beer culture that’s truly a mile high.

Denver

Presumably, you’re flying into Denver International, which is nowhere near downtown. So as long as you’re out there, take advantage by making your first stop Dry Dock Brewing (15120 East Hampden Ave. in Aurora). The way the crowd erupted during the award ceremony at the 2009 GABF when they earned Small Brewery of the Year honors, you’d think the brewery was larger. It’s one of Andy Sparhawk’s favorite Denver-area breweries. Sparhawk isn’t just the Brewers Association’s Craft Beer Program Coordinator, he’s also a Denver native, so we turn to his expert recommendations.

Once in town, make the “requisite” visit to Wynkoop (1634 18th St.) in Lower Downtown (“LoDo”), famed as Colorado’s first brewpub established in 1988 and perhaps even more famous for one of its founders, John Hickenlooper, who parlayed his success into becoming Denver mayor and who then sold his interest before his successful campaign for the governorship. Indulge in the local flavor with the buffalo meatloaf and wash it down with Mile Hi.P.A.

The brewpub is right by Coors Field, home of the megabrewery’s pilot Sand Lot Brewery (where some Blue Moon beers got their start) giving Colorado Rockies fans somewhere drink pretty great beers to dull the pain of these perennial cellar dwellers (and not in the good sense of a complex beer). Since there’s no chance the Rockies will be playing this deep into October, less than a mile walk is the equally compulsory-visit Great Divide (2201 Arapahoe St.). Denver’s largest brewery has been operating since 1994 and has developed a stellar roster of beers, most notably the members of the Yeti clan. Plunk down on a stool in the tap room and find out which Yeti Imperial Stout is your favorite: the original, Belgian-style, or the Oak-aged, not to mention variations on the oaked theme including Chocolate (my favorite given the dash of cayenne pepper) and Espresso. If you fill up on Yetis, walk ‘em off…it’s only a five minute stroll to River North Brewing (2401 Blake St #1). Sparhawk notes that they “specialize in what could be described as Belgo-nouvo.” Pop into their taproom and “try their Hypothesis, a Belgian-style Double IPA.”

Speaking of Yetis, Sparhawk shares a ridiculously cool sounding brewpub, the Yak and Yeti (7803 Ralston Rd. in Arvada) around 10 miles northwest of downtown where he lives. What began as the second location of this restaurant specializing in the cuisine of Nepal, Tibet, and India made excellent use of a pre-existing brewing system. Rarely does a brewpub offer such an exotic menu, which is also quite vegetarian- and kid-friendly. Though you’d expect to find a restaurant with Indian food to offer an India Pale Ale, the beer menu instead boasts Himalayan IPA (which won GABF gold in the Strong Pale Ale category a couple years back).

If heading there is too far, Denver Beer Co. (1695 Platte St.), which just celebrated its first anniversary, is much closer. “The past year has been whirlwind for Charlie Berger and Patrick Crawford,” says Sparhawk. “The brewery took home a bronze medal at their first GABF in the specialty beer category, Graham Cracker Porter, to hang behind the long bar in their tap room.” As locals flock to support and imbibe these newcomers, they can order food from the omnipresent food truck(s) waiting to serve customers and picnic tables to sit at, regardless of snow in the wintertime.

As a final brewery shout-out, Sparhawk points to the nanobrewery Wit’s End (2505 W. 2nd Ave, Unit 13), one of Denver’s newest yet only open during limited hours Thursdays through Sundays. Rather than deriving its name from brewing only Belgian White Ales, it’s actually the brainchild of Scott Witsoe, whom Sparhawk refers to as owner, brewer, bartender, janitor, etc. Wit brews one barrel at a time and evidently makes “a variety of fantastic beers…Grab a bar stool and chat it up with him with a Jean Claude Van Blond or Super Fl.IPA.

Of course, if walking across town (or hopping on the free shuttle that zips back and forth down the 16th Street Pedestrian Mall) is too much, drink your way across Colorado and beyond at the legendary Falling Rock Tap House (1919 Blake St.) with its 75-plus taps. Pop over after the evening sessions of the fest but either leave on the early side to make sure you get in, or enjoy standing in line with all your favorite brewmasters since the Falling Rock rightly doesn’t play favorites by letting anybody skip.

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May Your Glass Be Ever Full https://allaboutbeer.net/live-beer/travel/featuresa/2013/01/may-your-glass-be-ever-full/ https://allaboutbeer.net/live-beer/travel/featuresa/2013/01/may-your-glass-be-ever-full/#comments Wed, 02 Jan 2013 00:01:48 +0000 Roger Protz https://allaboutbeer.net/?p=28265 In Ireland, history catches you by the coattails at every turn. Towns, cities and countryside reflect centuries of invasion, foreign domination and massacre, the unbearable horror of the Great Hunger of the 19th century, and the long and bloody struggle for Home Rule in the 20th.

Irish beer reflects that history. When the British exported London-brewed porter and stout to the Irish part of the United Kingdom, brewers—notably Arthur Guinness in Dublin—accepted the challenge and turned the black beer into a proud flag-bearer of their fight for nationhood, eclipsing the British original.

Stout was followed by red ale, an Irish interpretation of English pale ale with more color in its cheeks. The very name speaks of rebellion and defiance, and that defiance is burned into the buildings and memory of Ireland’s second city, Cork. It’s called “Rebel City” and the beers from the local craft brewery reflect Cork’s role in the battle for independence from Britain, which responded by allowing its Black and Tan militia to raze the city centre to the ground.

Franciscan Well brews both a Rebel Red Ale and a Red Lager that would have surely met with the approval of Michael Collins, one of the key figures in the Home Rule movement. His base was Cork and he was known to enjoy a glass of beer. But, as the name suggests, the brewery predates the events of the 1920s by several centuries. It stands on the site of a monastery built by Franciscan monks in 1216, and they used the supply of pure water from a well to fashion ale for themselves and pilgrims.

The brewery and pub on the North Wall area of Cork is wonderfully atmospheric. From the street, you walk down a long corridor framed by ancient curved brick walls. You turn right into the dimly-lit cavernous main bar where the beers are served. Beyond are more spacious rooms and a garden area, while to the right is the large brew house where brewer Peter Lyall and his staff work their magic with malt and hops on the 11.5 hectoliter kit. The monks’ well can be seen but has dried up: Lyall uses the public water supply.

As well as red ale and lager, Lyall produces two beers that reflect the site’s ancient origins: Friary Weisse wheat beer and Purgatory Pale Ale. His stout is called Shandon, named after a district in Cork, and it has a superb aroma and palate of chocolate, coffee, roasted grain and spicy hops. Rebel Red accounts for 40% of the brewery’s output and is brewed with a substantial amount of crystal malt and roasted barley alongside pale malt. To prove that old antagonisms are on the wane, Lyall uses two English hops in the beer, East Kent Goldings and Fuggles. The beer is a classic of the style with caramel, roasted grain, orange fruit and grassy hops on the nose and palate.

As well as supplying beer to bars and restaurants in Cork city and the surrounding area, Franciscan Well plays host to an annual gathering of all Ireland’s growing number of craft breweries. There are now more than 20 breweries in Ireland, the north as well as the republic, and they have restored both choice and diversity of styles to an island dominated for years by the two giants, Guinness and Murphy’s. Guinness is now part of the global Diageo wine and spirits group while Murphy’s is owned by Heineken. Their sales are scarcely dented by the arrival of the small craft brewers but it must give Diageo and Heineken cause for concern that the new wave beers find favour with a young generation that, while proud to be Irish, has a modern European outlook demanding greater choice. Diageo has an additional problem: its head office is in London. One drinker in a bar said to me: “Guinness is a British company now” and that doesn’t play well in its country of origin.

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Brewery Boomtowns https://allaboutbeer.net/live-beer/travel/beer-travelers/2013/01/brewery-boomtowns/ https://allaboutbeer.net/live-beer/travel/beer-travelers/2013/01/brewery-boomtowns/#comments Tue, 01 Jan 2013 16:51:29 +0000 Brian Yaeger https://allaboutbeer.net/?p=28353 There are over 2,100 breweries in the U.S., according to the Brewers Association, an uptick of more than 350 in the last year alone. Apparently, more than half as many are in the works, as the association reports that nearly 1,300 are in the planning stages. Thirty-four hundred breweries and brewpubs? Where are we going to put them all? Evidently, several are or will be clustered almost on top of one another in a handful of hot spots from sea to brewing sea. While we suppose you’ve been to one or two hubs of brewing activity—epicenters such as Portland, San Francisco, Denver, Asheville, etc., spring to mind—how about resolving to make the new year all about visiting new hotbeds?

Of course, more isn’t necessarily more. Equally important is, how good are the new digs on the block? Be it by striking out into a whole new territory like Austin or seeping over into a nearby locale as is the case for me with Hood River, OR, boomtowns are experiencing liquid-gold rushes.

Austin, Texas

For various reasons, the Lone Star State hosts precious few brewing companies per capita, perennially finding itself in the bottom 10 in the union. But there is a bright, solitary star on the Texas beer map. Austin, famous for its Longhorns and its bats (there are more than 1.5 million in the largest urban colony in the country), now supports about 20 brewing concerns. Note that they all make the distinction between production facilities and brewpubs; the former can’t sell on-site directly to the consumer and the latter can’t sell for off-premise but don’t necessarily have a restaurant attached or any food available. Weird, right? Well, that’s why they say Keep Austin Weird. Here’s a look at the places keeping Austin beer’ed. Plan your trip in the summer (yes, it’ll be hot) during an only-in-Austin celebration called Bats & Beers.

Our guide through Austin’ is Christopher Orf, one of a few locals who aspire to establish a brewery. Orf Brewing hopes to host the first Orftoberfest in 2013. He’s at least as equally passionate about the local music scene, with Austin deserving its reputation as the Live Music Capital, and suggests streaming local stations KUT 90.5 and KOOP 91.7 as you plot your trip and once you arrive. As brew guide, he begins with the ones he calls the “old guard,” but of course that only dates back to 1997 with Live Oak Brewing, purveyor of “great, traditional Bavarian-style beers,” thus earning frequent “Best Of” honors. Orf is a huge fan of its hefeweizen and Pils and notes that even it has something new going on: the development of a larger facility on the Colorado River.

Brewpub-wise, visit the The Draught House Pub & Brewery (4112 Medical Parkway) to experience “the best beer bar, by many accounts” with great atmosphere inside and out (in the beer garden). It’s not to be confused with The Alamo Drafthouse (many locations), which does serve a house amber made by local Independence Brewing, but presents signature events like Heckle Vision, where audience members “text-heck” and their gibes appear on screen during cult movies.

If you’d like to class things up a bit, hit North By Northwest (10010 Capital of Texas Highway N.). The name isn’t a reaction to the famous SXSW Music Festival that Austin hosts, but owner Davis Tucker’s homage to the brewing culture of the Pacific Northwest that happens to be located in Northwest Austin. Orf confirms that “their beers are quite good, and tend to pair well with their food.” Try the tri-tip pizza washed down with Py Jingo Pale Ale.

Seeing as the new brewers have yet to develop a reputation beyond Austin city limits, one of the “established but still youthful” breweries is the area-code-identified (512) Brewing (407 Radam Lane, Building F-200). Incorporating local terroir, the Wit differs from a traditional Belgian Witbier by replacing orange peel with zest from locally grown grapefruits. “It has the stamp of approval from the late Pierre Celis,” mentions Orf, referring to the person single-handedly responsible for reintroducing this classic style. Celis became an Austin transplant, and his daughter recently announced plans to bring the Celis Brewing Co. back to Austin! As for (512), “Their Pecan Porter is delicious,” made with real Texas pecans.

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First and second weeks in October https://allaboutbeer.net/sidebars/2012/09/first-and-second-weeks-in-october/ https://allaboutbeer.net/sidebars/2012/09/first-and-second-weeks-in-october/#comments Sat, 01 Sep 2012 20:20:13 +0000 Brian Yaeger https://allaboutbeer.net/?p=28032 Not surprisingly, the larger New Ulm Oktoberfest celebrations grab the attention. For more scaled-back festivities, attend the Holiday Inn’s party, which attracts about 4,000 folks for an old-fashioned fest with the local brew and festbiers from the fatherland. At the downtown event held simultaneously, show up the first weekend for German Heritage Weekend or the following one, which becomes more family-oriented and cozier at about 3,000 people. There are brats and beers to enjoy while listening to German bands play atop hay carts, but instead of kids doing the chicken dance, they might be inspired by the live penguins in the petting zoo to shake a different kind of tail feather.

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Zinzinnati https://allaboutbeer.net/sidebars/2012/09/zinzinnati/ https://allaboutbeer.net/sidebars/2012/09/zinzinnati/#comments Sat, 01 Sep 2012 20:15:08 +0000 Brian Yaeger https://allaboutbeer.net/?p=28030 The granddaddy of all American fests is Oktoberfest Zinzinnati, in downtown. More than half a million celebrators will down about an equal amount of liters of beer (no small feat considering many of the attendees are kids) to wash down more than 80,000 bratwursts. CMI’s Nascimento says that this free event includes the Gemuetlichkeit Games, contests ranging  from log sawing to nail hammering to beer-barrel rolling and, oh yes, a Dachshund Derby. Beer from a wide range of breweries make this the biggest Oktoberfest outside of Munich.

Additional events in August, September, and sometimes October include the 42nd Annual Germania Society of Cincinnati Oktoberfest, which Nascimento says features “one of the better beer selections in the area”; the 34th Annual Mainstrasse  Village Oktoberfest; and several church- and community-based ones such as Annunciation-Clifton Oktoberfest and St. Jude Oktoberfest. While not technically an Oktoberfest, this year marks the 42nd annual Sauerkraut Festival in Waynesville, 40 miles from Cincinnati, where the vendors don’t stop at German staples—you can try sauerkraut pizza and sauerkraut fudge.

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