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Barley's Brewhouse & Eatery, Jackson, Tenn.

Barley's beers have little flavour. The golden, red, and brown had nothing to identify them, and little to differentiate between them. Interestingly, the lack of flavour meant my favourites were two brews I normally do not like. The honey wheat had a tinge of honey taste, but it was not as overpowering or cloyingly sweet as most commercial honey beers. It was a light refreshing summer beer. After the sample glasses, I stayed on it all evening. The stout had a definite taste of chocolate malt, but again was not as thick or heavy as commercial stouts. Had the weather been colder I would have drunk more of it. However, those who like the commercial versions would not like Barley's.

The menu had a fair range of standard pub food, and about an equal range of different items. The portions were hearty, the food tasty, attractively presented, and good value for money. The seafood gumbo had more sausage and rice than seafood, and there should be a wider range of vegetables. At present the only choices are french fries, baked white potato, baked sweet potato, and cole slaw. However these were the only complaints about the food.

If the beers are early examples of recipes that will be significantly improved, then Barley's will do well. If they are the ultimate of the brewmaster's art, then Barley's will last only until it has serious competition.