And it’s no different with us. We no longer travel as often, so we decided it was time to pass the Beer Travelers notebook, keyboard and torch. Once we made that decision, we started to think about our final column. Then, all of a sudden, the memories of so many establishments returned like anxious children demanding attention. We also realized that there are so many more places we wish we could have told you about, but didn’t.

Some closed before we had the chance to mention them, some never conveniently grouped with other establishments, and others fell victim to the dreaded word-count police. We’d be remiss if we signed off without telling you about at least a few of these places. So, without further ado, here’s our walk down the memory lane of not-quite forgotten places you may enjoy.

Most Unusual Landmark: Brouwerij ‘t IJ. If you find yourself in Amsterdam, be sure to visit. The brewery occupies the site of an old bathhouse in the eastern corner of the city, but it’s located next to an old windmill, which makes it oh-so-convenient to spot as you’re riding the tram. IJ is the nearby river. The house beers are organic Belgian-style ales that won’t disappoint. The interior is spartan, but the atmosphere is friendly and laid-back.

Establishment We Miss Most: 20 Tank Brewing. For years, 20 Tank served up incredible brews on 11th Street in San Francisco. It was a place we returned to frequently, often several times during a trip to the Bay Area. On one occasion, we drowned our sorrows there while watching the Michigan Wolverines lose a key game. Unfortunately, the brewpub succumbed to a landlord who decided to cash in on the real estate boom in 2000. The dot com era gave us a lot, but it also took away. R.I.P.

Best Beer Garden Experience: Waldwirtschaft. There is no better way to spend May 1st than in a German biergarten. It’s not just a national holiday, but it’s the day the Maibock is tapped. Residents gather to sit in the sunshine, listen to music, dine on grilled chicken and sausages, and just plain have a good time. Watching multiple generations toast, sing and laugh together is a subtle reminder that American liquor laws are draconian. Ein prosit!

Beer Festival You Must Attend: Great British Beer Festival. You can count on the weather gods to deliver London its hottest week of the summer, but you’ll be rewarded for your efforts. Often referred to as the World’s Largest Pub, here you’ll find at your fingertips Britain’s largest collection of ales, ciders and perries—most of which you’ll never see anywhere else except for a few miles from the brewery. They serve by the pint and half pint, so you’ll need to plan your quaffing carefully. Luckily, the festival is five days long, so you can sample at your leisure.

Best Brewery Tour: Cantillon Brewery. It’s located in downtown Brussels, but this family-owned operation still relies on a 500-year-old process that utilizes local wild yeasts to turn out traditional gueuze, lambic and hard-to-find faro. The brewery doubles as a museum; a self-guided tour takes you past the brewing equipment and explanations of how these historic styles are made. And yes, there are free samples at the end of the tour.

Best Place to Pair Beer and History: Crown Liquor Saloon. The beauty, detail and history are breathtaking in this Belfast landmark. Paul’s Irish grandfather and English grandmother told us stories about “The Troubles,” which came to life as we absorbed our surroundings. The saloon sits across the street from the former Europa Hotel, the most rebel-bombed site in the city. If you’re into political history, you can imagine yourself debating with friends inside one of the famous snugs. Even if you’re not, the restored glittering artistic detail deserves a visit in its own right.

Second-Best Place to Pair Beer and History: Mendocino Brewing Co. Ale House. Welcome to the appropriately named town of Hopland, CA, where wine country gives way to redwoods. Mendocino began life here in 1983, using the brewing equipment and yeast strain from America’s first post-Prohibition micro, the New Albion Brewing Co. Although brewing operations have moved to Ukiah, this historic little bar still draws a funky clientele of tie-dyed locals and beer travelers making their way along U.S. 101. Don’t forget to sign the guest book at the bar.

Biggest Tap Selection: Taco Mac. This Decatur, GA beer haven is worth a stop when you’re in Atlanta. The legend about buffalo wings coming south is true, as are the reports of an enormous beer selection. There are 90 plus draught lines and over 250 bottles to choose from. Also on tap: SEC football, which pairs well with a pint, a plate of pub grub and old friends. Psst… while you’re in Atlanta, be sure to visit the Cyclorama, too.

Best Travel Respite: The Frog & Rosbif. After a week or so of drinking wine with the Parisians, we longed for a beer. Although Paris has a few of its own brasseries—the word means “brewery” in English—we found The Frog & Rosbif, in the 2nd arrondissement, to be a sanctuary of Anglophiles. It’s easy to slip away here and find yourself surrounded by hearty ales, fish and chips, Yorkshire pudding and, of course, football scores and the latest league table.

Best Sunset: Whalers Brewpub. Tucked away in what seemed like an out-of-the-way location in Lihue, on the Hawaiian Island of Kauai, we watched the most beautiful sunset ever here. A hurricane destroyed it along with much of Kauai not long afterwards, and the brewpub never came back to life. We don’t remember much about the beer, but boy do we remember the view.

Best Special Effect: The Mechanical Löwenbräu Lion. Yes, we’ve mentioned the lion before, but our memories of standing outside the Löwenbräukeller in Munich one night many years ago during Starkbierzeit listening to a giant mechanical lion say “LU fen brow” still brings us to tears laughing. It helped, of course, that we had consumed several liters each of potent doppelbock.

Finally, an enormous “Thank You” to everyone. Thanks for reading all these years. Thanks for writing to us. Thanks for coming up to us at festivals, saying hello and toasting your favorite brewery and brewer with us. We’ve enjoyed it all.

If you’re in the Ann Arbor area, give us a holler and we’ll show you around our local watering holes and introduce you to Michigan’s craft beer. We’ll still publishing BeerFestivals.org and recently started a blog by Ludwig, our beer drinking lion mascot, which can be found at LudwigRoars.com. Don’t be a stranger. Most importantly, keep drinking craft beer and supporting your local breweries.

Until we meet again, cheers!

It’s a sentimental place for us. It was one of the first cities we explored after we got married. No matter how many times we visit, there’s still a long list of things to do, or see, on top of the things to do one more time. When the Giants built a new ballpark, another trip became a must. Long-time readers should be familiar with our love of baseball and our quest to visit every ballpark in the nation.

So put on your Beer Traveling shoes, we have a lot of ground to cover. Luckily, the Bay Area has excellent, affordable public transportation. Let’s begin at the 21st Amendment Brewery (563 2nd St.), located less than three blocks from the AT&T Park, where the Giants play. It’s the perfect place to enjoy a couple of beers before and after a game. We found both the brewery and the large, adjacent patio overflowing with fans.

The 21st Amendment’s clean and modern interior fits perfectly into the surrounding industrial area that’s undergoing revitalization. Just beyond the entrance is a horseshoe-shaped bar, followed by a large dining area. Make yourself comfortable and order from their full range of beers and extensive menu.

This establishment has joined the growing list of breweries now also canning their brew. In fact, before games their patio sells cans exclusively—both from “21A” and several other breweries. The chalkboard is one of the most interesting we’ve ever seen. It not only lists the canned selections, but also displays the cans themselves.

High Times in the Haight

Not far from the Moscone Center, and within walking distance of the cable car turnaround off Market Street, you’ll find the Thirsty Bear Brewing Co. (661 Howard St.). Located in a historic building, it too has a modern feel—high brick walls contrasted with blonde wood tables and metal chairs. It’s certified organic and also claims to be the first brewery restaurant to serve a Spanish menu.

A rich aroma of malts greets you at the door. You’ll find the beer menu displayed on framed chalkboards hanging on the back bar, and the brewing equipment is visible from the dining room. There are normally nine beers on tap, two of which are seasonal. Thirsty Bear also taps a cask every Tuesday. We ordered a Meyer E.S.B. and Kozlov Stout, both on nitro, and thoroughly enjoyed each.

People of a certain age still associate the Haight-Ashbury district with the‘ counterculture movement of the ‘60s. We even overheard a lady from Texas asking people waiting at a bus stop on Market Street: “How can I get to the ‘hippie district’?” Yikes! We were tempted to say, “Set your watch back about 40 years.”

Haight is home to one of the best beer bars in America, Toronado (547 Haight St.) Hold your fire, please! We didn’t include Toronado in the last issue about beer bars because we knew we’d talk about it now. The draft list is absolutely amazing. We couldn’t even count all the tap handles because some were located inside a walk-in cooler. Suffice it to say, there are more than 40. This establishment has quite a following, so you should go in the afternoon when it’s less crowded. Besides, their happy hour is one of the most generous you’ll find anywhere.

Toronado’s beer list is on a chalkboard that hangs from the ceiling, about half way through the main bar area. From that list, we picked out a Deschutes Green Lakes Organic Ale, Kern River Just Outstanding IPA, Bear Republic Red Rye on cask, and Napa Smith Porter. At happy hour prices, they set us back just $3 a piece. Can your local match that? If it can, let us know; you have a treasure that the rest of us should know about.

We’ve seen reviews in various online sites that accuse Toronado’s staff of being—well—gruff. Their attitude fits right in with the interior, which screams, “drinking bar.” Just remember a golden rule of beer traveling—“you’re here for the beer.” Let the folks who want fruit drinks with umbrellas move on to somewhere else while you have another round.

When you exit Toronado’s front door, turn right, keep going until you get to Masonic Avenue, and cross the street as you face north. You’re now standing in front of The Magnolia Pub& Brewery (1398 Haight St.), another great place for a beer traveler to quaff and eat. Once you’re inside, you can either find a quiet corner or make friends at the bar.

The interior has recently changed. The enormous mural is gone, and the overall feel now is artsy and rustic. There are about 10 beers on tap, plus five more on hand pull. We ordered a pale ale and a porter and found them spot-on. The staff was knowledgeable about their products, but perhaps a bit hurried. Don’t expect traditional pub grub here. Magnolia subscribes to a “Slow Food” philosophy, which means the menu has a little bit of everything—pork cracklings, charcuterie and cheese platters, braised oxtails and pizza just to name a few.

Gimme Steam

Entrepreneurs and, of course, beer lovers are familiar with the story of Fritz Maytag and his beloved Anchor Brewing (1705 Mariposa St.). The brewery offers two public tours a day, so we were lucky enough to see the operation first-hand. Once again, the city’s public transportation system didn’t disappoint: the 22 bus dropped us just three blocks from the front door. The tour lasts about two hours and is a wonderful way to spend a morning.

Every bottle label of Anchor Steam, the flagship beer, says “Made in San Francisco since 1896.” It’s been far from smooth sailing for the little brewery, though. Between the earthquakes, fires, untimely deaths of owners and Prohibition, it’s more than amazing that this little gem has survived. At least six owners have struggled keeping Anchor alive over the years. In 1965, bankruptcy was looming and the owner of one of the few remaining tap accounts mentioned Anchor’s imminent closing to Fritz, the grandson of the Maytag appliance founder. Not long afterward, Maytag bought 51 percent of the ailing operation for about the price of a car. Four years later, he acquired the rest of Anchor’s shares. In 1971, Anchor began bottling. Growth and popularity came slowly but today, its products are distributed in all 50 states. Nevertheless, at about 100,000 barrels a year, Anchor remains very much a craft brewery.

For years “steam” was a generic name for West Coast beers that were made with lager yeast but fermented at ale temperatures. There are differing opinions about why it was called “steam.” The two most popular explanations include the need to let off some of the carbon dioxide pressure, or steam, generated during the fermenting process before being able to serve the beer. Another is the appearance of “steam” rising from the shallow cooling tanks used to drop the wort temperature. In any event, “steam” is trademarked by Anchor, but the style is officially referred to as “California common.”

Our last stop is located along Memory Lane. The first brewpub we ever visited was San Francisco Brewing Co. (155 Columbus Ave.). It enjoys a fantastic location: the intersection of Chinatown, North Beach and the Financial District in a Gold Rush-era restored saloon. The brewpub has many touches from yesteryear—its mahogany bar and beveled glass back bar are stunning. Over the years we’ve found the beer quality variable. For that reason we thought long and hard about leaving it out of this story. But cooler heads prevailed: We decided to include it because of its early role in the formative years of craft beer history, as well as the Bay Area’s.

If you’ve decided to stop in, be sure to check out the custom-made copper brew kettle. But if this brewpub isn’t for you, don’t worry—you’re only a few blocks away from the Rogue Ales Public House (673 Union St.). We’ve sung Rogue’s praises in other issues, and the North Beach location won’t disappoint you.

An extensive list is just one thing that helps make a great beer bar. Quantity isn’t everything. Are local breweries represented? Are there unusual beers from other states and across the ocean? Does the list rotate with seasonal favorites and new releases? Is the staff knowledgeable? Has the beer been physically cared for en route to your glass? Is it served just as the brewer intended: fresh, at the proper temperature and in an appropriate glass? And—this is a biggie with us—is the establishment conducive to both drinking and conversation?

Luckily, America is rich in great beer bars where you can expect a perfect pint. So without further ado, let’s visit a few of our favorites.

No visit to Portland, OR, is complete without a stop at the Horse Brass Pub (4534 Southeast Belmont Street). It’s a quintessential British pub where the only New World concessions you’ll see are the BridgePort and Black Butte signs flanking the famous “Public Bar” sign. Well, that and a beer card filled with American craft brews.

Horse Brass opened in 1976, showcasing then hard-to-find imports. Later, it became the first establishment in Portland to offer local micros. There’s a good possibility you’ll see owner Don Younger holding court at the enormous wooden bar. Take a stroll around between pints and look at the posters and pictures, many of which represent military escapades from the days when the sun never sat on the British Empire.

The back-lit boards list the current offerings, which change frequently. So often, in fact, that our server told us that the two-day-old paper menu we picked up had several selections already tapped out. We ordered a Hogsback Stout from Mt. Hood Brewing Co. and a Double Mountain India Red Ale, both served from casks. The food menu is traditional English pub grub: fish and chips, bangers and Scotch eggs; and it’s moderately priced. Quality is Job One, Two and Three at Horse Brass.

The Falling Rock Tap House (1919 Blake Street) in Denver is another corner of heaven for visiting beer lovers. It’s located just a few blocks away from the Great American Beer Festival, and it’s where the brewers hang out after last call at the festival. About a quarter of the over 60 taps are dedicated to Colorado beer, with a wide variety of breweries and styles represented. We’ve been there several times; and even when it’s been packed to the limit, the staff always served us fresh beer at the right temperature.

In addition to a formidable draft list, Falling Rock offers 75 bottled beers: a wide selection of Belgian favorites; high-end selections from American micros, like Hair of the Dog and Dogfish Head; and a smattering of English ales. The décor is ‘70s “starving student”: overstuffed thrift shop chairs with wobbly legs and worn cushions; breweriana on the walls; and hundreds of empty beer bottles on the shelves, including long-defunct brands that will lead you down memory lane. Falling Rock fits like an old pair of jeans, very comfortably.

Forty-ninth State Brews

If your travels take you to Anchorage, be sure to stop at Humpy’s Great Alaskan Alehouse (610 West 6th Avenue). This is the destination for Anchorage’s serious beer fans. The lineup of over 40 drafts changes daily and leans heavily toward brews from the Pacific Northwest. There is also a big bottle selection and if you’re so inclined, single-malt Scotches. During our week-long stay we dropped in, sampled beers from around-the state, made a return trip and another… that alone tells you all you need to know.

Humpy’s isn’t a very big place, but its down-home charm attracts folks of all ages. Chances are it’ll be crowded, but if it is, order a beer at the bar and wait for a table to open up. It won’t be long. This place is fish heaven—a “humpy” is an immature salmon, by the way. Fish are depicted on the walls, and even more show up on the menu: halibut burgers and tacos, and even a smoked salmon Caesar salad. There’s live entertainment nightly and, unlike many places, it won’t interfere with your conversation.

Five thousand miles away, in the “other Portland”—Maine, of course—you’ll find The Great Lost Bear (540 Forest Avenue). Yes, as you might expect, it sports a large stuffed bear. Fifteen of the 65 taps are dedicated to Maine micros; and the beer selection changes so often that the Bear’s Web site warns: “We at the Great Lost Bear can not update our menu daily online (we’re too busy changing beer kegs).”

Oh, about that Web site. It also features the “Bear cam,” so you can use up your 15 minutes of fame while Web surfers watch you quaff. But first, take a few moments and wander around. The walls contain a complete flea market: stuffed animal heads, classic movie posters, pictures of long forgotten politicians and amusement park memorabilia. It’s a good place to eat, too. The menu is, as you might have guessed, eclectic. If you can’t find a satisfying accompaniment to your pint here, you won’t anywhere. And before settling your tab, ask your server if they have any “Support Your Right to Arm Bears” bumper stickers in stock. Regardless of your views about hunting, they make for interesting conversation.

The Ginger Man Pub opened in Houston in 1985. There are now four pubs in this “close-knit family.” They’re all a little different, and each has its own impeccable beer line-up. We haven’t been to all of them—yet—but let’s set a course for Houston (5607 Morningside Drive). First, though, bring your GPS, because this place is hard to find without some help. From the outside, it looks like a house with picnic tables on the front deck; inside a long wooden bar is the main attraction. The backyard is a small beer garden. The taps, which run the length of the bar, are equally divided between domestics and imports.

The Ginger Man is named after one of literature’s gamier characters. An autographed copy of J.P. Donleavy’s famous book is available for customers to thumb through, as are copies of Michael Jackson’s books. The location is close to Rice University and the Texas Medical Center. As you might expect, there have been more than a few serious conversations here over the years, all of them over some mighty fine beverages. Serving fresh beer from 75 taps for over 25 years is a sure sign of an educated clientele. And any place that sells souvenir t-shirts with the famous Shakespeare quote, “And I will make it a felony to drink small beer,” has got to warm your heart.

Our next stop is the Toronado (547 Haight Street) in San Francisco. But, there’s a snag: the word count police just shone the spot light on us. So this is where we’ll meet you in the next issue when we visit the City by the Bay. Until then—cheers!

They’re all champions this year, and they’re all from Pennsylvania. Sports fans have had a lot to celebrate in the Keystone State. Fortunately, they have plenty of beer to do it with.

Pennsylvania has a rich brewing history dating back to colonial times. Our Founding Fathers downed a pot of ale at pubs like the Indian Queen, the City Tavern and the Tun Tavern as they debated the document that formed our new nation. Later, German immigrants brought a love of lager across the Atlantic.

In past issues, we’ve taken you to Philadelphia and Pittsburgh, but what about that long stretch in between? It’s not just highways, gas stations and fast food. A short detour off the four-lane will lead you to great craft beer and some interesting places to drink it in. So come on, grab your beer traveler’s notebook and let’s start tasting.

What better place to start than Stoudt’s Brewing Co., Pennsylvania’s first modern-day microbrewery? It’s located on State Route 272 in Adamstown, a tad west and north of Philadelphia. In the 1980s, Carol and Ed Stoudt wanted to add another dimension to their growing restaurant business. After attending a brewers’ conference in Portland, where they met craft brew evangelists, the pair were hooked.

Carol has since become one of America’s first female brewers. Stoudt’s ranks as one of the top award winners at the Great American Beer Festival, and with good reason. They brew both lagers and ales, and both are solid. The pilsner, which Carol says took over two and a half years to get the recipe the way she wanted it, is one of the best you’ll find anywhere.

More than a restaurant and a brewery, “Stoudtburg” is an enormous complex that also includes a bakery; a beer garden, where numerous beer festivals are held; and a 70,000 square foot antiques mall. How popular is this place? Just look at all the out-of-state cars in the parking lots. Don’t worry—the locals come too. It’s the kind of place where you stop in for a beer and windup spending a lazy afternoon.

You can take Ed’s free brewery tour on Saturday or Sunday. Or, if you just drop into the Victorian-decorated restaurant filled with breweriana, the staff will happily acquaint you with what’s on tap. If you’re into political memorabilia, check out the small room off the bar, which is decorated with portraits of nineteenth century presidents. We sat beneath Rutherford B. Hayes who, ironically, didn’t drink.

New Holland Brewing Co., 66 Eighth St., Holland

Founders Brewing Co., 235 Grandville Ave., Grand Rapids

Hopcat Brewing, 95 Ionia St., Grand Rapids

Jamesport Brewing Co., 410 South James St., Ludington

North Peak Brewing Co., 400 West Front St., Traverse City

Right Brain Brewery, 221 Garland, Traverse City

Short’s Brewing Co., 121 North Bridge St., Bellaire

Michigan’s lakefront towns still welcome tourists from Chicago, and day-trippers from other parts of Michigan. They attract a steady stream of visitors to their beaches, state parks, bed-and-breakfasts and tiny vintage hotels. The local climate is friendly to fruit growers: 75 percent of the nation’s tart cherries, over 250 million pounds, are grown here annually; and those same hardwood cherry trees also produce a flourishing furniture industry.

Dutch Calvinists were among the first to settle in the area during the 1840s. Their cultural, religious and business influences remain firmly rooted. Until last year, Sunday sales of alcohol were banned to varying degrees in many communities. On the surface at least, it seems an unlikely place for the brewing industry to gain a strong foothold. But it has, and in an impressive way.

Michigan has over 70 breweries, and almost a third of them make their home close to the shores of Lake Michigan. When you consider that most of the population is concentrated on the opposite side of the state, it’s an amazing demographic.

Let’s begin our journey just north of the Indiana state line in a city called Benton Harbor. Owner and brewmaster Steve Berthel of The Livery is betting on an economic turnaround. This downtrodden community has more available lakefront land than anywhere else on Michigan’s west coast, so he just might be putting his chips on a winner.

In 2005 Steve renovated the Palace Livery, located in what’s known today as the arts district. The “9-barrel Berthel” brewhouse was cobbled together at a cost of only $60,000. The fermenters are English grundys from Cameron and Tettington.

Steve, a woodworker, cyclist and music lover, did much of the restoration work himself. The bottom level has an L-shaped wooden bar and stools made from secondhand wood. If you look closely at the posts in the taproom, you’ll see the cribbing marks courtesy of the horses in the original livery.

Part of The Livery’s charm is being the only brewpub in Michigan with both a stage and a mezzanine. Upstairs you can see more of Steve’s handiwork. It has a state-of-the-art sound system and regularly showcases national acts.

There are normally 12 house beers on tap, including a hand pull and two to four lagers. They’re not just the usual suspects. The lineup spans the spectrum from pale ales to high-gravity ones. Steve uses generous amounts of Continental malt because he believes that his customers deserve to taste the rich flavors those malts impart.

Are Benton Harbor’s worst days over? Only time will tell. But if they are, Steve Berthel’s vision of making The Livery a destination for both beer geeks and locals will be one reason for the turnaround.

So, come on. It’s Beer:30. And we’re thirsty. Aren’t you?

We start our trek at Tugboat Brewing (711 SW Ankeny St.), an establishment that’s so small it’s easy to miss. Some years ago it was easier to spot—all you had to do was look for the 24-Hour Church of Elvis across the street. Alas, nothing lasts forever.

The place is funky, comfortable and fun. The walls are lined with old books—a big plus—and the wooden booths even have reading lights. Customers can also test their skills on various board games scattered around the pub. Don’t be surprised if you see the brewer’s bicycle parked in the hallway, or a dog sitting with its family and acting like a human.

Tugboat opened about 15 years ago. We’ve watched the quality of house beers and guest taps improve over time. Last October they had six house beers and ten guest ales available on draft. We had several rounds and enjoyed them all. Some folks have described Tugboat as a place that marches to its own drummer. Just remember the beat is really mellow.

Kurt and Bob Widmer pioneered American-style hefeweizen here. Since then, they’ve been applying things Kurt learned in Germany and some good old-fashioned American ingenuity in their brewing operation. Beer Travelers can find Widmer Brothers Brewing (929 N. Russell) about two blocks away from the light rail stop. From there, just follow the aroma of boiling mash. Or look up and head for the wisps of steam rising to the sky.

The brewery, which produces more than 100,000 barrels a year, is a smart-looking brand-new brick structure. The pub, named the Widmer GastHaus, is located across Russell Street, inside a historic red-brick building that’s been turned into a slightly Americanized version of a German beer hall. The European-style tap towers in the barroom will immediately catch your eye. We counted 13 different beers on draft—including five IPAs. And there’s an interesting twist to the beer card, too—a “May Be Available” section. These beers are available at the pub, and nowhere else.

Maryanne sipped a black bier and Paul enjoyed a Brrr, a dark winter warmer with enough sweetness to hide the generous amount of hops—not to mention a potent alcoholic wallop. The food menu ranges from German favorites like schnitzel and goulash to veggie burgers, and includes everything in between. Be sure to try a traditional soft pretzel served with spicy mustard.

Brewery with a Cause

It’s only fitting that a “green” city like Portland is home to a place named Roots Organic Brewery (1520 SE 7th Ave.). Located in an old storefront in an east-of-the-river industrial district, its interior is best described as Contemporary Island Resort. Even the tap handles are mini-surf boards. If you sit at the bar, you’re in for a big surprise: the seats are lower than you expect. Our bartender laughed it off and told us that the customers get a kick out of feeling like kids while drinking adult beverages.

The beer is indeed organically brewed. In fact, there are bumper stickers everywhere that read “Drink Organic. Save the Planet One Beer At a Time.” There’s no doubt the environment is a priority issue here. Their Nevermined Pale Ale is a “beer with a cause”: a part of the proceeds go toward cleaning up an abandoned mine that has been polluting the local water supply.

Other beers in the regular lineup include Burghead Heather Ale, which is brewed with organic heather tips instead of hops, and Woody IPA, which is dry-hopped with whole Magnum hops. Their seasonals have a bit of a twist, too. During our visit, they were serving a Toasted Coconut Porter, dry-hopped with ten pounds of organic, hand-toasted coconut flakes—just enough to leave a subtle hint on your palate and deliver a smooth finish.

It isn’t hard to figure out how the Produce Row Café (204 SE Oak St.) got its name. It’s smack in the middle of industrial buildings with loading docks. Look for the unpretentious black sign with Produce Row’s logo, a mushroom.

The barroom has an eclectic old-time décor, including cabinets filled with breweriana. There are only four seats at the bar, but don’t worry: table service is friendly and snappy. We counted 21 tap handles, plus two with nitro, most of which are dedicated to Northwest micros. Produce Row also offers an extensive bottle list.

We arrived just after happy hour began, so both the beer and the food were attractively priced. For about $3.75 each, pints of Terminal Gravity IPA, Deschutes Jubelale on nitro, Amnesia Sleigh Jerker and Hub 7 Grain Stout were a bargain, and each one was perfectly poured and in tip-top condition. The appetizers, including fried calamari and a generous portion of beer-battered fries, were enough to make a meal. And because it was Friday, clam chowder was on the menu. It was so creamy and full of clams that Paul decided he could live on it. Well, that and beer.

A Traveler’s Tip

Here’s a little secret to Beer Traveling: check out the list of the latest GABF medal winners. You might find a gem that flies below the radar. That’s how we discovered the Laurelwood Public House and Brewery (1728 NE 40th Ave.). They had just won a gold for their Munich-style helles, so we decided to pay them a visit.

Nestled in a neighborhood shopping center, the Laurelwood Pizza Co. serves up some great beer and mighty fine pizza—its other specialty. The large black and white canopy with blinking lights makes it easy to find. We wandered in on a Friday evening. The place was filled with families and friends easing into their weekend. Like many of Portland’s other brewpubs, it’s kid-friendly and even has a separate play area in one corner.

The main brewing operation has been moved to another location, but the DME brewing system—located on the lower level—is visible behind glass. We grabbed seats near the long, wooden 15-seat bar, where we found seven regular beers, two seasonals and a cask listed on a chalkboard.

We enjoyed their award-winning Himmelbrau Helles, along with Wandering IPA on cask, Organic Tree Hugger Porter and a Space Stout. If we had time for another—sadly, we had a plane to catch—it would’ve been their high-gravity organic red ale that earned rave reviews from those around us.

We enjoyed a nightcap at Portland’s airport, which goes out of its way to accommodate Beer Travelers. A kiosk sells 22-ounce bottles of Rogue Ales and even growlers of Dead Guy Ale. And if your flight gets delayed, or if you’ve come early, you can hang out at the Rogue Ale House. Refreshingly, the prices aren’t jacked-up for the captive audience.

As the song goes, “In heaven there is no beer. That’s why we drink it here.” As orthodox beer lovers, we truly hope there is a brew kettle inside the Pearly Gates. And, we hope that it’s filled with liquid gold from Portland.

Portland is so rich in places to quaff that we could devote several columns to it. We simply can’t do the city justice in just one. So, for the first time ever, we’re doing two articles about one place. In this issue we’re visiting the Pearl District. Next issue, we hope you’ll accompany us to some of the places located outside of downtown.

Getting around Portland is an utter joy. Your designated driver is TriMet: an extensive, well-run system of buses, light rail and even a European-style streetcar. An inexpensive daily pass will get you anywhere.

So, let’s hop on the streetcar, which does a loop from downtown, and past the famous Powell’s City of Books and into the Pearl. A design staple in these parts is converting industrial property into showcases for good beer. And that’s precisely what Deschutes Brewery Portland Public House has done at 210 NW 11th Avenue.

Last year Deschutes, which has been brewing in Bend, OR, since 1988, renovated an auto shop into a beautiful state-of-the-art brewery and dining area. The outside is freshly scrubbed pale brickwork, with a retro “Deschutes” sign on the corner. As we approached the front door, we saw a smiling gentleman carrying out a case of newly released Jubelale. He gave us a good chuckle by saying “Lucky for you, there’s plenty more inside.”

And there is. In all, 16 taps and two hand pulls of some of the best beer in the world. You’ll find all of Deschutes’ regular lineup, plus a special menu of “exclusive beers” that aren’t available anywhere else. The bartender suggested we try the fresh-hopped Mirror Pond Pale Ale. We did, and our only regret was not being able to make a day of it right there.

The interior decoration evokes a rustic inn, with high ceilings, brightly colored walls and a stone fireplace. Be sure to take a good look at the wooden arches, carved into local plants and animals. The food menu shows some genuine creativity: elk burger, grilled pear and goat cheese pizza, venison chili and a sweet and spicy baked mac-and-cheese made with a sweet chile cream.

Deschutes bottles its beer, and you can find it many places, but all everybody knows there’s nothing better than fresh beer served at the brewery.

Names like Anheuser, Lemp and Falstaff became synonymous with beer in St. Louis, and beyond. Today, a rich local brewing tradition continues along the Mississippi River. It’s easy to find terrific hand crafted beer in the shadow of the Gateway Arch, the city’s most recognizable landmark.

Brewing’s new chapter began in 1991 when the St. Louis Brewing Co. opened its doors. Its principal owner is local attorney Tom Schlafly. You probably recognize the product as Schlafly Brand Beers. He and a chap named Dan Kopman, who had worked at the famous Young’s Brewery in England, wanted to produce good, local microbrew. That they do, even though they’ve grown quite a bit since opening day.

The Schlafly Taproom, located at 2100 Locust Street (at 21st Street), was the first brewpub to open in Missouri. This beautifully restored historic structure was built at the turn of the century for a printing company that occupied it until 1969. It stood vacant for years and survived a fire, which destroyed several of the surrounding buildings in 1976. You can still see heat damage on some of the beams inside.

Park in the lot next to the rear door, and you’ll pass through a mini-hop garden on your way to the dining area and tap room. The brick walls and wooden floors call out “industrial,” yet it has a European aura. Be sure to look for the blackboard that lists Schlafly’s 100-plus tap accounts. Near the 15-barrel DME brewing system, you’ll see a running count of how many batches of beer have been produced this year.

Pale Ale is the flagship product, but you’ll find the full line of Schlafly beers from an American pilsner-style lager to a barleywine, as well as three rotating seasonal selections on tap. On a late September afternoon, we enjoyed a saison and an Oktoberfest. The menu, which is paired with house beers, includes moules frites, a liverwurst sandwich, and pretty much everything in-between.

There’s more to the St. Louis Brewery empire: the Schlafly Bottleworks, not far away at 7260 Southwest Ave. in Maplewood, opened in 2003. It was the first new production brewery to open since the end of Prohibition. Located in a former supermarket, it has a half-acre garden, where herbs and produce are grown for the on-site restaurant. There’s even an outdoor farmers market in the warm months.

If you can’t get to visit either location—although we highly recommend you do—it’s easy to find Schlafly beers at local bars and liquor stores. Even fans attending Cardinal baseball games at Busch Stadium can quaff a Schlafly.

You’re probably wondering whether a place this busy and intense can make room for a watering hole where you relax and enjoy a decent beer. Not to worry. It doesn’t matter if you’re attending the upcoming presidential inauguration, looking for a staff job, chaperoning your local high school’s government class on a field trip, or planning to attend a Nationals game, there’s a variety of places to quench your thirst.

For over 50 years, beer lovers have beaten a path to The Brickskeller (1523 22nd Street NW), which boasts the world’s largest selection of beer. It can be a bit tricky to find since it’s in the middle of a residential street with less-than conspicuous signage. Once you make your way up the front steps, you can either continue upstairs to the Dining House, or follow the footsteps of other pilgrims. Open the door immediately to your right and head back down to street level and the Down-Home Saloon. The Brickskeller won’t pamper you, but it’s one of those one-of-a-kind experiences—like sharing a table at the Hofbrauhaus or hoisting a pint in a London pub where Samuel Johnson once held court—that earns it a place on everyone’s “don’t miss” list of beer destinations.

Once upon a time, Paul was a researcher in academia. Much of his work was sponsored by Uncle Sam, which required him to make the occasional trip to Washington. On one of those trips, in 1978, he met a friend at the Brickskeller. This was before anyone heard of the phrase “craft brew,” and most of the beer sold in America was mass-market lager. In those days, the Brickskeller had a large collection of canned beer, much of it directly facing the bar in a row of coolers—which are still there. Paul had spent a lot of time on the road and tried many local brands, but he’d never tried some of the beer on display and in some cases, hadn’t heard of them. The beer was undistinguished, but the cans were colorful and the bar staff let customers take them home to add to their collections. To this day, Paul regrets his decision to unload his collection: he had no idea that someone would invent eBay and turn his clutter into wealth.

The beer list—actually, it’s almost a book—has everything from Abita to Zywiec, and everything in between. As you look at it, you’ll be amazed how many more brews you’ll need to drink before you even come close to sampling everything the world has to offer. But keep trying: as Beer Travelers, we can think of no nobler goal.

Absolutely Capitol

Our next stop is the Capitol City Brewing Co. located right outside Union Station (2 Massachusetts Avenue NE). It served as the Federal City Post Office until 1986. Now, after a painstaking restoration, part of the building has become the Smithsonian National Postal Museum.

With its white masonry exterior it is a quintessential Washington structure, so we were surprised to find a sleek modern interior. The large, centrally located rectangular-shaped bar surrounds copper serving tanks and immediately catches your eye. The open design also boasts a spectacular staircase that leads to a second level with the fermentation tanks and an additional dining area.

Sitting at the bar, we shared a sampler. You can customize your own, choosing between five and eight glasses, depending on whether you just want the regular rotation, or the seasonals as well. We found all of the beers spot on, and we particularly enjoyed the kölsch, a style many American brewmasters struggle with. The food menu is pub/casual and reasonably priced for the location.

By the way, there are two other locations: 1100 New York Avenue NW (at the corner of 11th Street and H Street) and 2700 Quincy Street, Arlington, VA. The first was established in 1992 as Washington’s first brewpub since Prohibition and was part of the new downtown retail area in the renovated Greyhound Bus Terminal.

The Metro, Washington’s ultra-efficient public transportation system, makes it easy to get around town, so in just a few minutes we found ourselves at the Old Dominion Brewhouse (1219 9th Street NW). As you might gather from the name, this establishment specializes in serving beer brewed at its mother ship, Old Dominion Brewery. They have 11 Dominion tap handles with both ales and lagers; and here, too, you can make a sampler to suit your fancy. Guest beers included Murphy’s and Tennants. It’s also a place where you can order any fancy or complicated cocktail your mind can conjure.

The interior is eclectic: breweriana, NFL team logos, and an unusual mural of DC icons. The sheer number of flat-screen TVs (including one inside the men’s room) gives off an unmistakable message: this is a sports bar. We half expected a talk show crew to set up shop and start fielding calls from antsy Redskins fans—and the pre-season hadn’t even started.