Welcome to Lambic Country

May 21, 2014 By Charles D. Cook

In de Linde (Lenniksebaan 159, Itterbeek)

A newish café that is well worth a stop is In de Linde, located at a crossroads on the outskirts of Itterbeek, west of Brussels. In de Linde stocks 120 beers and is also an Orval Ambassador café, meaning the Orval Trappist brewery has named it as one of the best places to drink an Orval in Belgium. The Ambassador program is based on a number of different criteria, which are independently researched by the brewery. Most importantly, the bar has both Oud Beersel and Girardin lambics on draft, which not all cafés do, as well as a near-complete assortment of all the lambic brews, making this a great place to taste a lot of different lambic beers while in lambic country.

Volkscafé De Cam (Dorpsstraat 67a, Gooik)

The village of Gooik is home to Geuzestekerij De Cam and several wonderful cafés, so it’s a must stop for any lambic enthusiast. Blender Karel Goddeau often gives tours of De Cam on Sunday afternoons. Then taste his brews just yards away at Volkscafé De Cam, the blendery café. The site also houses a cultural center, and a museum of folk musical instruments. Goddeau’s rarely seen lambic, kriekenlambic, and even a gueuze are usually available on tap at the Volkscafé, which is the unofficial taproom of the blendery. There are also about a dozen other bottled lambic brews on the menu, but don’t expect to see the even harder-to-find De Cam Oude Geuze or Oude Kriek in bottles.

You should expect to find excellent regional cooking at reasonable prices, friendly service, and an interior filled with interesting old antiques and collectibles at Volkscafé De Cam.

De Groene Poort (Dorpsstraat 31, Gooik)

In De Groene Poort (“In The Green Gate”) is situated in an old farmhouse near the center of the village of Gooik. With 60 brews on its list, including Boon Oude Geuze, several lambics and other regional beers, beer is much more than an afterthought here. Girardin lambic and kriekenlambic are often available in bag-in-box form, and the cooking ranges from small snacks to full meals. There is a good-sized patio for warm-weather imbibing. All the shutters and doors are painted green, not surprisingly.

Den Haas (Wijngaardbosstraat 6, Gooik)

Just a few kilometers outside the village, in a hilly area, Den Haas (“The Hare”) is an old country pub where life seems to pass a bit more quietly. Hop vines hang from above the bar, giving you an idea that this place takes beer seriously. There are nearly 100 brews on the menu, including about 10 special oude gueuze and oude kriek beers. A straight lambic is also often available. Food is small snacks such as local bread, ham and soft cheeses. In a shed outside the main café, older locals play a game called trabolspel, which translates roughly as “feather bowling.” It’s unlike anything you’ll see anywhere else.

De Rare Vos (Marktplein 22, Schepdaal)

De Rare Vos (“The Wily Fox”) is one of lambic country’s most enduring cafés, dating from 1880. There are about 25 beers on offer, including Girardin lambic or kriekenlambic in season, and a good list of gueuze and kriek brews. While the front room is small, with a wood-paneled bar and five or six tables, this is a sprawling place with half a dozen rooms that can accommodate up to 400 people. This is another classic café to sample fine Flemish cooking, such as mussels, steaks (beef or horse) chicken and more.

De Welkom (Jan De Trochstraat 87, Schepdaal)

On the outskirts of the village, north of Schepdaal, Café De Welkom is another great place to stop. The two-room café has just 17 beers on its list, but the two on handpump are the reason to visit. It is rare to see both Girardin Jonge (young) and Oude (old) Lambik on draft at the same time, but at De Welkom, you often will. The young version, with perhaps three months of aging, is very cloudy, golden, wheaty and with fairly high carbonation. The old, with around nine months in a barrel, is more refined, with less carbonation, and is a much more amber in color. The price? Just 1.40 euros ($1.90) for a glass.

Het Klosken (Brusselsestraat 24, Sint-Martens-Lennik)

Heading about five kilometers to the southwest, another of the top lambic beer venues awaits: ‘t Klosken. This long red-brick building, at a crossroads, comprises a former horse stable and other farm buildings. There are about 60 beers on the menu, including the newly reformulated Timmermans Oude Gueuze and Oude Kriek, as well as 10 other lambic brews. Much of the front room dates to 1946, and the owners are a friendly, beer-loving couple. De Klosken has a full restaurant menu and serves fine meals. Try a steak with croquettes or frites.

Den Ouden Belg (Dorpsstraat 40, Asse)

Another superb spot for eating and drinking is Den Ouden Belg (“The Old Belgian”) in Relegem. It’s so close to Brussels that you can see the famous Atomium in the distance. There are about 25 beers on offer, with several oude gueuze. There is a great collection of old and rare enamel advertising plates from lambic and other breweries on its walls. Try mussels while there.

Moeder Lambic Fontainas (Place Fontainas 8, Brussels)

Heading into Brussels, there is one café that sets the bar very high in lambic terms. With up to six lambic brews pouring via handpump and others on draft and in bottles, Moeder Lambic Fontainas is lambic beer heaven in the capital of the European Union. There are usually several brews from hometown brewery Brasserie Cantillon on offer, as well as from Gueuzerie Tilquin, 3 Fonteinen and others. The 40 draft brews always feature several lambics, as well as other great microbrews from around Belgium and the rest of the globe. There is often a younger vibe here on weekend nights, with live music and a lively atmosphere. But it’s never too crazy. The long bench seats usually accommodate a very beer-discerning crowd.

More: Check out some insider tips for drinking beer in Belgium.