Nearly two decades ago,
as he took up a job as an
agricultural consultant in
Manteo, NC, Uli Bennewitz was
persuaded by his brother back in
Bavaria that a restaurant that brewed
its own beer—a brewpub—would be a
sure winner in his new home in
America. The brewing equipment was
en route to North Carolina before this
newcomer discovered two unfortunate
legal obstacles: brewpubs were illegal
in North Carolina, and Manteo itself
was located in a dry county.
Though an immigrant, Bennewitz
managed to get brewpubs legalized
in North Carolina, navigated the local
dry laws, and in 1986 opened the
Weeping Radish in Manteo. Now, the
new Weeping Radish Farm Brewery in
Currituck, NC, integrates all of Bennewitz’
diverse passions about food,
health and community at one site.
A couple of years ago, you speculated
that one problem beer has—that
wine has overcome—is that beer
hasn’t capitalized on its connection
to agriculture.
True. If you look at wine in North
Carolina, a brewer is absolutely envious.
The Department of Agriculture
supplies wineries with funds, billboards,
brochures. Wow. In fact, wine
and beer, we are both craft industries,
we are very similar, we both go back
thousands of years.
Your latest project brings
all of this full circle.
It really does. Being in the farming
business, which I still am, and the beer
business, I saw more and more parallels.
The reason why microbrewed beer is so
much better than conventional beer—it’s
an issue of the [length of the] food chain.
The best beer you ever see is perhaps
at Oktoberfest in Munich. They
make it, they age it for six months,
they haul it across town and serve it in
the beer tents they same day they tap
it from the brewery.
Small-scale farming is the same way.
The farmers’ markets are superior
in their products. Why? Because the
farmer digs the vegetables the night
before and hauls it to the market.
Both are perishable commodities.
And both—if they are consumed in
moderation—are health beneficial.
Our mission as a little business is to
reduce the food chain from 2,000 miles
to 200. If you do that, now you have
natural food and natural beer. With vegetables,
it’s fairly straightforward: you
have a farmers’ market, and it works.
The problem is meat. You can’t just
take a little cow, chop it up and take
it to market. It doesn’t work: there is
another skill level involved. And that
is the master butcher. He is a qualified
craftsman, just like the brewer. Our
concept is the celebration of craft: the
craft of brewing, the craft of butchering,
the craft of farming, and the culinary
craft. And the other two crafts
that are critical to a community are
arts and music. We have an upstairs
for those, where we can have festivals
and events. Then you can bring all the
crafts and the community together.
So this is in Currituck?
This is in Currituck. It’s a 15,000 square
foot building. We have a 14-acre
organic farm in the back. Its divided
between an organic farm, and a butchery
that is a joint venture with a fifth
generation German master butcher.
What is the interaction between the
brewery, the farm and the butchery?
All three are working together: we did
a barbecue in the butchery that used
Black Radish beer; we have a liverwurst
(that is really a liver pâté) made
with 40% sweet potato content—it’s
extraordinary. And the smokehouse
will smoke malt for rauchbiers. So
you see, we’re integrating the natural
beer, the natural meat and the natural
vegetables all into a group.
We want to take it to the waste cycle.
Our goal is to go to the community
and say, “Whatever is compostable,
we’ll pick it up. We’ll take our meat,
our beer, our vegetables to your store
and we’ll pick up compostables on the
same trip, take it back to the farm and
it becomes fertilizer on the farm.”
There’s a direct correlation between
food chain, quality of food and flavor.
The further you go, the less flavor you
have left. Beer, meat, vegetables: it’s
the same story. |